I don’t get much sympathy from folk back home when I complain about the weather. Sheets of icy hail and thick blankets of drizzle definitely don’t feature on my much-missed list, but the suffocating heat here can be just as miserable.
This year, temperatures soared very early on in the hot season, without a single falling drop of liquid relief between January and April. Daily life in a torrid climate is far from paradise - the oppressive heat turns simple tasks into sweat-induced drudgery.
The fan blows hot air like a hairdryer, the cold water runs tepid and the poor dogs pant like they are gasping for their last breath. Housework becomes less appealing than ever; ironing when the temperature is 40c surely qualifies as a form of exercise?
By April, the parched nation eagerly awaits the first rains of the imminent monsoon season, and the refreshing cool air that blows in with it. On April 13th, Songkran Day, the whole country takes to the street to celebrate traditional Thai New Year and the beginning of the monsoon season. Thais certainly know how to throw a party, and this rain dance is the nation’s most vibrant celebration.
The traditional and religious aspects of the annual festival are often overshadowed by the wet and wild war of water which takes place throughout the Kingdom. Millions of Thais and travellers participate in the world’s largest water fight, congregating on the streets armed with pump-action water canons and buckets of cold water, plus plenty of alcoholic refreshments to fuel the excitement.
The sober elements of Songkran take place in Buddhist temples, where ceremonies and rituals mark the lunar New Year. However, to the disappointment of many traditionalists, the street-side water play characterises modern day Songkran. Equipped with garden hoses, overflowing barrels and powerful water guns, groups of hyped-up teenagers dance on the road and soak everyone and thing that passes by.
Pick-up trucks full of cheering revellers cruise the streets stopping to engage in water fights along the way. Even motorbike drivers and bus passengers don’t escape the soaking. And from toddling age onwards, children are at the centre of this massive splash fest.
Thai ‘lady boys’ are out in full glory, sporting their tightest and most revealing apparel for the wet t-shirt contest they always dreamed of winning.
It’s touching to witness an entire nation revert to child’s play, regardless of age, religion, politics or culture.
This national festival comes at a time when Thais are deeply concerned about the future of their country. The recent rash of rioting in Bangkok has caused injury and even deaths, and once again the Thai tourist industry falls victim to the unrest.
Visitors should avoid Bangkok, particularly areas where demonstrations are taking place. All other areas of the country are still safe for travel and there are many entry points. Travellers shouldn’t be deterred - Thailand needs tourists more than ever at this time, and it is still possible to enjoy a fantastic holiday here.
Despite the current turbulent tides of political conflict, Thailand managed to have a splashing good Songkran. Let’s hope New Year sees the return of peace and sanity to the streets of this fun-loving nation.
