Thursday, September 16, 2010

Thailand's wine country



Think Hua Hin, and wine isn’t the first thing that springs to mind. But in the sultry heart of the southwestern Thai tropics, a region more famous for its beaches than its wine, there is a vineyard proving popular with tourists.

A hot climate isn’t conducive to grape-growing - according to text books anyway, but there are viticulture regions in Central Thailand where a new genre of wine and travel are flourishing.

Siam Winery is defying the belief that wine-making grapes can not be successfully grown in tropical climates. The company’s ‘Monsoon Valley’ wine, produced exclusively from Thai-grown grapes is exported to 20 countries. Last month, the label won five awards at the 13th Japan Wine Challenge, to add to its accolades.

Wines produced within this latitude band have been labelled New Latitude Wines. Many experts believe their terroir (the personality of a wine due to environmental factors) complements Thai cuisine.

The winery’s vineyard (huahinhillsvineyard.com) is located on a former elephant corral, around 40 kilometres from downtown Hua Hin. A transfer service from Hua Hin Market shuttles visitors to and from the site; minibuses depart from the town at 10:30 and 15:00. It is essential to book your seat on the minibus in advance (telephone: 032 526 351).

After a 40 minute drive through the rolling hills of Hua Hin, visitors are greeted by a landscape which could almost pass for Napa Valley. Until an ambling elephant gives the location away.

Neat rows of fruit-laden vines lead the eye to the winery’s Sala Bar and Bistro which overlooks the fruit fields. Designed by former Norman Foster architect, Sylvia Soh, the sala pavilion’s design was recently cited by the World Architecture Community Awards for receiving the admiration of many of their honorary members.

Under the free-flowing curved roof of the sala, the wine bar and bistro is the perfect perch for dining and drinking up the view through a glass of the winery’s finest.

The bistro’s menu offers guidance on pairing Monsoon Valley’s wine with a selection of Thai appetizers such as satay, calamari and seafood salad, as well as main course grills which include cuts of imported beef.

Pairing wine and Thai cuisine is often challenging – even for the experts, but the chef’s picks make perfect palate sense. For example, the aromatic Shiraz Special Reserve is a divine partner for the spicy beef salad with grapes, and the crispness of the Colombard complements the zesty seafood salad.

Standard fare, such as fried rice, spaghetti, and sandwiches, is also available but carries the usual levy for the above-standard setting.

Entrance to the site is free, but it’s a good idea to book an organized tour if you want to gain real insight into the concept of New Latitude wine.

A tour package consisting of a wine pairing and tasting session, video presentation, vineyard tour by elephant back, and a souvenir, costs 1,200 baht. For 600 baht more you can add a three course meal to the package. Transfer to and from the site is an additional 200 baht.

If the abounding nature or inspiring architecture tickles your artistic side, you can purchase a label-making set and create a unique souvenir. Sets including a mock-up wine bottle, stick-on label and paints cost 300 baht.

The winery is open all year but just before harvest season - from late November until early March – visitors can view the vines laden with bunches of plump rosy grapes.

A visit to the winery consumes half a day, freeing up time to explore other nearby attractions. Pa La-U Waterfall in Kaeng Krachan National Park is nearby and well worth a dip mid-afternoon. Hiking the 15 tiers to the top, is no walk in the park, but experiencing the unique natural beauty of each level makes it worth the mosquitoes, sweat and leeches.

Other local attractions include Khao Takiab (Chopstick Mountain) with its quaint little hilltop temple, and Khao Sam Roi Yod National Park which is home to one of Asia’s most diverse bird populations.

Travel between Phuket and Hua Hin is time-consuming: it’s a seven hour drive. Taking the scenic route through Ranong adds some visual pleasure despite lengthening the journey. Coaches take 10 hours and while the overnight train from Surat Thani guarantees a bed, it adds an extra leg to the journey.

Regardless of your mode of transport, be sure to make a stop at Hua Hin Railway Station. Thailand’s oldest and most beautiful railway station was once a Royal pavilion in Nakon Pathom.

Accommodation in Hua Hin varies from basic guesthouse digs to plush five star luxury pads. If being within easy access to the night market, beach, and local amenities is more important than in-room spa services and a squash court, you can find a good room for around 1000 baht.

Hua Hin still possesses most of the old Siam charm the travel guides rave about, but visit on a weekday so it isn’t obscured by Thai tourists.

Wednesday, September 15, 2010

Roughing it down south



Few places in the world boast landscape as diverse as the Andaman Coast. Handsome limestone outcrops rise from an emerald sea, fringed with brilliant arcs of white. Ancient forests cling to the peachy rock face, providing a sanctuary for families of the wild.

Along the coast, an organised entanglement of mangrove roots forms an important ecosystem, while inland, geo-thermal water pools in a jungle clearing.

This serene setting provides relief from the afflictions of city life. It’s an escape from monochrome shades and mundane routine. It’s also a reminder of a disappearing world, and the need to protect it.

As many coastal areas of southern Thailand have been greedily engulfed by a wave of commercial development, travellers seeking adventure a little more low-key, have to plough deeper into rural areas to find true adventure travel.

In the northwest of Trang province, the small coastal community of Bo Hin is becoming known as a destination abundant in natural riches and as a sought after location for farmstay holidays.

The farmstay consists of a series of rickety shacks, perched on the water’s edge. It is run by a team of 19 local boatmen, fishermen, weavers and cooks. Having pledged their skills, equipment and time, they offer visitors a captivating experience of the Bo Hin area.

The eco-mind behind the project is a warm and welcoming local, Mr Bonjoan. He explained two-fold purpose of the farmstay, “I wanted to develop a project that would bring prosperity to the community, and at the same time raise awareness about protecting our environment.”

Mr Bonjoan said the local community pulled together to make the farmstay a reality. “A group of us got together and made a list of what we could offer in terms of both skills and equipment. After adding it up we realized we could provide tourists an opportunity to experience local farming life, as well as our culture,” he said.

The stilted wooden homestead consists of three main rooms connected by a passageway, which also serves as a meeting point, restaurant, and pier. Within each main room there are private bedrooms with ensuite bathrooms, plus a communal lounge area with TV, sofa and books. Accommodation is clean, airy and cool.

Visitors are invited to join locals as they complete their daily tasks. Early risers can learn how to tap rubber and the various stages of preparing the rubber for manufacturing.

There is also the chance to join local fishermen as they head out to the Gulf of Sikao. Guests can cast nets in the Andaman waters, and their catch of the day will be cooked and served upon their return.

Back on dry land, the village women exchange news and chat while making handcrafted goods from pandanus leaves. Joining in this activity provides the chance to enjoy some banter with locals while trying your hand at weaving.

A longtail boat trip with Mr Bonjoan, or one of his crew, is the best way to fully appreciate the natural beauty of the coastline. Boat trips take you through dense mangroves before navigating around groups of towards towering limestone karsts.

Rows of stalactites jut from overhangs on the rocks, while below the lapping water spills into a dark cave as a white bellied sea eagle skims the surface, talons clenched, ready to swoop on unsuspecting prey.

Patches of deep pile emerald carpet soften the harsh rock face while the creamy contours of the limestone melt into the turquoise sea. A small lonesome palm tree sprouts from a cliff; its trunk curling downwards but fronds reaching out towards the warm sun.

Mr Bonjoan is keen to share his knowledge of the local area with visitors, and points out the various islands, beaches, and caves where fishermen take shelter from turbulent monsoon storms. He is also involved in programs to preserve local marine life, a matter close to his heart.

The waters in the area are home to a population of dugongs, or sea-cows, an almost-extinct marine mammal, largely dependent on sea grass.

Recent surveys show that the number of dugongs in the area has dropped in the last year. In a bid to help, Mr Bonjoan has started a sea grass planting scheme to create a more abundant food source and save the species from extinction.

Bo Hin Farmstay is a fantastic example of how tourism can help preserve local nature, customs and traditions. Instead of adapting their ways to accommodate visitors, locals invite guests to share in their everyday life and learn about the environment. It’s quite an eye-opener.

Friday, July 30, 2010

Sator: much more than a stinky bean


Love it or loathe it, there is no avoiding the sator bean (petai) this season. Dangling from trees and market stalls throughout the southern region, the distinctive green twisted cluster bean is in abundance at present.

The sator tree grows to a lofty 30 metres and bears long pods studded with up to 15 bright green edible seeds. Pods are harvested from trees and sold in bunches at local markets and street stalls; seeds are also extracted and sold by weight.

While the wayward curly pods have an interesting appearance, there is so much more to this bean; the almond-shaped seed is a leguminous powerhouse of nutrition.

Packed with protein, potassium, iron and fibre, the beans are widely believed to offer a number of health benefits and effectively conquer a range of ailments including high blood pressure, PMS and constipation.

Unfortunately, there are some less appealing side effects. Similar to other beans, their complex carbohydrate content can cause strong-smelling flatulence. And similar to asparagus, certain amino acids found in sator add a green tinge to urine, as well as intensifying the smell.

The bean’s odour is very pervasive, and can linger in the mouth and excretory system of the body for two to three days, which explains how it earned its nickname, ‘stink bean’.

Despite its off-putting qualities, sator is a highly regarded member of the pea family (leguminosae) in southern Thailand, Myanmar, Malaysia, Indonesia and north east India. The shelled beans are also pickled in brine and exported to the West.

First and foremost, the beans are rich in complex carbohydrates, and combined with their high fibre content, they provide an instant and substantial energy boost. Their high fibre content not only helps avoid constipation, but is also proven to benefit diabetics.

Eating sator can help those suffering from obesity to cut out comfort eating. Sator’s high complex carbohydrate content gives a feeling of fullness and tends to satisfy the comfort eater’s cravings for starch, so they are less likely to gorge on the wrong foods between meals.

Sator beans are bursting with potassium, plus they are very low in salt, making them hugely effective at reducing high blood pressure. So much so, the petai industry has been authorized to make official claims about the bean’s ability to reduce the risk of high blood pressure and strokes by the US Food and Drug Administration.

Potassium is also linked to improving memory and concentration, so sator is could be termed as a ‘brain food’. Encouraging children to eat more sator may lead to increased academic performance.

Sator contains vitamin B6. Many women take a Vitamin B6 supplement to alleviate premenstrual symptoms, as the vitamin plays an active role in synthesizing the brain chemicals which control mood and behaviour. By including sator in diet there is no longer any need to take a pill as the bean is a rich resource.

Sator is rich in a variety of amino acids including tryptophan. Nicknamed the ‘good mood amino acid’, tryptophan has the ability to increase levels of serotonin in the brain and consequently induce feelings and happiness and elation. Combined with the feel-good factor high carbohydrate content, the bean has mood enhancing qualities and can help lift the mood of those suffering depression.

According to a recent survey completed by MIND, many people suffering from depression felt considerably better after eating petai beans. Eating sator may help sufferers of SAD (Seasonal Affective Disorder).

Petai bean’s high sugar content makes it a good snack for keeping morning sickness at bay. It is also high in iron, so people suffering from anaemia should include petai in their diet to stimulate the production of haemoglobin.

Sator’s ability to neutralize over-acidity in the stomach means it is an effective antacid and can ease heartburn and help ulcers.

In Thai culture, some foods are believed as ‘cooling’ and able to lower both the physical and emotional temperature of expectant mothers. Pregnant women in Thailand eat large quantities of sator beans in hope that their baby is born with a cool temperament.

The inside of the petai bean can also be used to treat mosquito bites. Many people find rubbing their finger inside the skin of the bean and applying to the bite reduces swelling and irritation.

Sator is a natural remedy for many ailments. Compared to an apple, a serving of sator has four times the amount of protein, twice the carbohydrate and five times the vitamin A and iron.

In Thailand sator beans are usually stir-fried in a curry with shrimp or eaten raw with nam prik (shrimp paste).

The mildly bitter taste and lingering smell may be off-putting initially, but with so much to offer in terms of health and nutrition it is definitely a taste worth acquiring.

Rolling destinations in SEA

While a handful of resorts and tour operators are thinking outside of the standard-sized box, the island of Phuket remains largely inaccessible to physically challenged travellers.

Navigating urban areas in Phuket can be extremely challenging for wheelchair-bound tourists. Pavements are uneven and often obstructed by large advertising boards. Few buildings provide ramps or handrails, and many doorways are too narrow to allow wheelchairs to pass through.

Disabled visitors are limited to touring the island by taxi and while many taxi drivers are often helpful, they are not trained to assist disabled passengers.

As one of Thailand’s premier holiday destinations, Phuket doesn’t fulfil its unwritten duty to accommodate all types of traveller. Fortunately, there are some wheelchair-friendly destinations within easy reach of Phuket.

Thanks to an informative blog published by disabled residents, Hanneke and Jan van der Line, the beach resort of Hua Hin is emerging as a shiny new pin on the disabled traveller’s wall map.

Hua Hin is best known as a royal retreat and popular weekend escape for wealthy Bangkokians; however, international tourists are also well catered for, including those with physical disabilities.

Thanks to its Royal presence, Hua Hin remains unblemished by the rash of girly bars and jet skis commonly associated with tourism; the Kingdom’s oldest beach resort retains its quaint charm and is a blissfully peaceful retreat.

The grandeur of Old Siam echoes from the town’s quaint streets and colonial mansions, including Thailand’s oldest hotel which was originally built as a venue for royal parties thrown by the Queen.

Jan, who is wheelchair bound, and his wife Hanneke, enjoy life in Hua Hin, and recommend the town as a holiday destination for disabled travellers. The couple have designed and built two holiday homes which are fully adapted for wheelchair users.

Visitors can choose from a spacious pool villa close to the beach, or a modern downtown apartment. Both include features such as electrically adjustable beds, roll-in showers and manual pool hoists.

The downtown location suits travellers who enjoy easy access to markets and restaurants, while pool villa guests are only a quick roll from the beach, massage salons and bars.

Their travel blog (wheelchairthailand.blogspot.com) provides useful information for disabled visitors, such as details of accessible temples, markets and bars for viewing live sports action.

Hanneke explains, “We believe Hua Hin is a good destination for wheelchair users as an array of attractions such as the teak wood palace, the beach, temple grounds and shopping malls are relatively easy to access, as well as many cultural shows, bars and restaurants.”

Other wheelchair-friendly destinations within easy reach from Phuket include Singapore. Four airlines operate regular flights from Phuket International Airport and the journey time is just under two hours.

Singapore may be Southeast Asia’s smallest country, but in terms of mobility impaired access, the city-state is miles ahead of its neighbours.

Disabled travellers can get around the city with ease as the subway (Mass Rapid Transit – MRT) has lifts and specially adapted wide gates, and many bus routes are served by wheelchair accessible buses.

The airport shuttle service has wheelchair access and there are two taxi companies offering facilities for disabled passengers. The Handicaps Welfare Association is just one such organisation that provides transport services in the form of vans fitted with hydraulic lifts.

Based on transportation alone, Singapore is in a different league of accessibility from Phuket.

Judy Wee, Principal Consultant at Levelfields Consultants explains, “Singapore is a fantastic and accessible holiday destination for travellers with physical disabilities. Tourist attractions, shopping malls and restaurants are all easy to access. There are many places to visit including Singapore Zoo, Night Safari, Sentosa Island and Marina Barrage.”

Singapore Zoo allows visitors to experience a world of fascinating nature at close range. The site is sectioned into geographical locations, such as the Australian Outback and Wild Africa and visitors can experience wildlife from every corner of the globe.

Approximately 90 percent of Singapore Zoo is accessible to wheelchair users and buildings housing the various exhibitions and animal shows can be entered by ramp. Visitors will find similar facilities attractions throughout Singapore.

Judy, who understands the anxiety of travellers with disabilities, recommends that in-bound visitors contact travel agents who specialise in making arrangements for tourists with special needs.

Patrick Ang, Manager of Asia Travel Group Pte Ltd, who is a paraplegic and an avid traveller, fully understands the needs of wheelchair-bound visitors. Patrick customises packages to suit the interests of visitors. A recent customer, Julie Chong, describes the service provided by Asia Travel Group Pte Ltd, “Meticulous staff helped us find the best value for our budget and advised us on accessible hotels close to sights, as well as accessible transport.”

Singapore is certainly rolling ahead of Phuket regarding catering to disabled travellers needs. An accessible destination needs to offer more than a disabled toilet and parking space; every aspect of travel needs to be considered.

Phuket’s accessibility needs a complete overhaul in order to become a destination physically challenged travellers can thoroughly enjoy, starting with public transportation. After all, without transport, travel is impossible.

Krabi Night Plaza



Last month saw the opening of Krabi’s brand new night plaza, an event which was christened with five nights of live music, cultural acts, shopping and socialising. Spirits were high and the tone of the party signalled much hope for the forthcoming high season.

The neat little bamboo retail village is the first stage of a plan to regenerate an area of wasteland close to the town centre. Project developer and ex-Mayor, Chuan Phukaoluan, recognised the site’s potential and enlisted the help of innovative architect and popular musician, P Choy, to create a new heart for Krabi’s social scene.

Chuan explains, “This location is so close to the town’s most popular attractions, it makes sense to offer visitors a more extensive range of amenities.” He also revealed that future plans include the development of a tower hotel, overlooking Krabi’s iconic twin peaks, Khao Khanab Nam.

A good percentage of the shop units have been snapped up by retailers who have cottoned on to the need to offer shoppers something fresh and organic. Finally business owners in Krabi are beginning to ditch the copycat mentality and trust their own imagination. Edgy fashion boutiques and retro coffee shops might be new kids on the Krabi block, but locals were keen to acquaint.

After a round of retail therapy, a slinky cocktail at Amata Bar is the perfect chaser. This little gem of a bar has not only revived Krabi’s live music scene, but dug out a cosy watering hole for Krabi’s expat community. Laidback weeknights play to the sound of acoustic folk songs, while weekends feature classic rock mixed with more upbeat ensembles.

The space has been designed to accommodate concerts, exhibitions and other events. The on-site spa is in the final stages of completion and will soon add an additional dash of luxury to the experience. Krabi Night Plaza is open every evening from 17:00 until late.

Tuesday, July 13, 2010

the gold beyond the sunset



From an aesthetic point of view, Phuket is an endless slideshow of exquisite scenery. Idyllic beaches, tumbling waterfalls and forest-capped karsts are some of the region’s most photographed features.

An image of a dazzling white sandy beach makes an attractive screensaver and is sure to impress colleagues, but by spinning around 190 degrees and recomposing your shot, you may capture a scene which tells so much more about the setting.

For example, a photo of a beachside som tam (papaya salad) vendor, her face deeply creased from a lifetime’s worth of smiles and trials, is a reminder that ‘paradise’ is a wearing workplace for some. The genuine warmth of the local people is also radiated from this single image. In fact, there are enough threads to spin dozens of tales, while the postcard beachscape shot is usually only worth a handful of over-used adjectives.

Early risers will be rewarded; not only does the morning light enhance the warmth of photos, but it is the best time to observe the local culture.

A saffron-robed monk wandering barefoot along an empty street lit by the glow of a rising sun is a peaceful and calming image. As residents offer alms, a close-up of their closed eyes and graceful wai (bowing of head while hands clasped in prayer) frames this religious ritual perfectly.

Fresh markets are busy hives of colour, variety and chatter. Focusing on these three aspects can help convey the lively atmosphere of the market. Resist the temptation to squeeze too much into one shot, often an isolated object, gesture or expression provides more insight about a place than the whole scene.

Displays of fresh produce are colourful and arranged with skilful presentation, while textures and shapes are often quite peculiar, this unlikely marriage makes the perfect subject for close-up photography. Most compact digital cameras have great capacity for taking close-up shots; just set it to macro. If you can’t focus, take a step back and try again.

Downtown Market, Phuket’s longest running market, on Ranong Road, Phuket Town, is the best bet for an early morning shoot as vendors set up shop from 03:00.

Bangkok-based travel photographer, Marc Schultz, is renowned throughout the Kingdom for his outstanding work. His first photo book ‘Thailand – a taste of paradise’ was published in 2008, and he recently collaborated on a travel book which will be on the shelves later this year, entitled ‘To Thailand with Love’.

Marc describes his favourite locations on the island, “One of my favourite places to photograph is the Sino-Portuguese quarter of Phuket Town. The old shophouses are so charming with their beautiful colours and old design. It’s a true gem of a location and an easy subject to photograph.”

Marc has experienced much of Thailand through the lens of his DSLR, he advises on composition, “I think the key is to capture vignettes of a place rather than just a wide angle shot. Tightly cropping and isolating subject matter affords a more intimate take on the culture.”

“Photos should only hint of a place and its people. Think about the aspects that you find most charming about a place, then try to isolate them with a shallow depth of field. It’s also an easy way to shoot in a crowded location where there are many other cameras clicking and angling for the obvious hero shot.”

Temples offer the ideal setting for sharpening your photographic skills. Now the monsoon season has finally blown in, a temple photography tour of Phuket could be the ideal way to spend a rainy day. Try focusing on details such as a resting hand of Buddha or an ornate repeating pattern. Heavy shadows and high contrast lighting accentuate the spirituality of the scene, so have a good look around before you set up your shots.

Daily life in Phuket is an eclectic collage of potentially great shots. We are surrounded by interesting subject matter, but it needs to be composed carefully and economically.

Turning your back on the obvious and trusting you eye to lead you to a more visually arresting composition is a step towards a more captivating image.

Cultural references enrich the contextual information of a picture, so identify the detail that first caught your eye and single it out.

Spending a day or two exploring Phuket through the lens of your camera is sure to be an eye-opening experience.

Shoot beyond the sunset and you will discover that the vibrancy of local culture can be captured just as vividly. If you have never found a pot of gold at the end of a rainbow, maybe it’s time to look beyond the sunset.

Monday, June 28, 2010

Where nature greets tourism



Sustainable tourism is much more than a flimsy fad in the travel industry. Awareness of the concept is spreading rapidly and reaching corners of the region where tourism is still just a twinkle in the eye of its community.

While Krabi Province is renowned for its sparkling jewels such as Railay and Koh Phi Phi, there are many hidden gems yet to be unearthed.

Passing through Ao Luk, the small town appears nothing more than a cluster of dusty shophouses crowded around a busy junction. However, within a radius of a few miles there lies an array of natural attractions to rival any of the Kingdom’s nature resorts.

Ao Luk is set amongst a pristine natural landscape which includes ancient caves, meandering canals and lush vegetation. It is home to an adventure playground designed by nature that offers kayaking, trekking, caving, climbing and cycling.

Often confused with the concept of ecotourism, sustainable tourism focuses on more than just conserving the local environment. It is concerned with protecting communities, culture, customs and lifestyles.

Eight communities in Ao Luk have formed a group (Ao Luk Community Based Tourism) in hope of creating an alternative style of tourism which not only protects their livelihood, but offers travellers a rich and authentic experience.

Instead of ‘selling out’ to capitalist developers, residents are encouraged to convert their humble abodes into homestay accommodation, so guests can sample the warm hospitality of the people in the area.

Guest rooms are set apart from the owner’s residence for maximum privacy and relaxation; however, visitors are invited to join residents in all other aspects of their daily life such as fishing, farming and religious ceremonies.

Homestays have been built in a variety of natural settings, so visitors can choose a location to suit their mood. Rooms are thoughtfully positioned to offer the best views and indulge guests’ vision of a private and scenic getaway.

At Raipreda Homestay, the rustic-style bungalows are perched precariously on a rugged hill, and encircled by a protective mountain range. Tropical fruit trees and exotic flowers add dapples of colour to the emerald blanket which covers the hillside.

It’s a peaceful setting with only the chorus of birds and insects breaking the silence. Camping is also available.

The owner, Mr Jatuaporn, lives on site and takes care of visitors as if they were guests staying in his own home. There are bicycles and kayaks for rent, and the grass-roofed restaurant doubles up as a meeting centre for group tours.

For those who prefer sea-green tones, Laemsak Homestay is the ideal choice. Comfy air conditioned chalets sit on the edge of the water, offering stunning coastal views.

Opaque silhouettes of rugged karsts jut from a watery bed - it’s a still scene apart from the occasional longtail boat cutting across the seascape and leaving a white foamy trail.

It is well worth consulting nature’s timetable when planning a visit to the area. Each month at the peak of low tide, a geothermal beach, ‘Hat Sai Rawn’, is unveiled, providing the ultimate nature spa setting. Trips arranged by local agents include traditional massage, mud masks and ample time for wallowing in the warm soothing water

Fresh air, clean water and lush jungle will always be in demand, so communities and travel operators must take social and environmental responsibility.

Ao Luk CBT not only takes responsibility for its land and culture, but allows tourists the chance to show their support for true sustainable tourism and enjoy a cultural exchange with locals - which is sure to enrich their travel experience.

Monday, June 14, 2010

Cultivating a backyard pharmacy


The majority of amateur gardeners could easily identify an aloe vera plant as treatment to soothe a burn, but to ease an upset stomach, most would overlook their own fruitful garden, full of natural remedies. Instead, they would make their way to the pharmacy to buy a familiar remedy.

That trusted brand-name formula is most likely to be based on chemicals that were originally discovered in plants. While this isn’t a major revelation, most people don't realise just how many plants in a home garden have contributed to modern medicine.

Mother Nature holds a recipe book of remedies which have soothed sore throats, settled stomachs, and cured diseases for many centuries. Around fifty percent of today’s prescription drugs are derived from chemicals which were first found in plants.

Since ancient times, man has experimented with thousands of plants to treat dozens of ailments. Even some animals have the ability to seek out bitter herbs in response to illness.

A garden can double up as a pharmacy, and you don't need green fingers and a white coat to reap the benefits. When considering entering the field with clean wellies, it’s best to stick to certain plants, as some are very toxic. Without being a gardening enthusiast or a closet chemist, anyone can create a few handy herbal concoctions with just a little bit of plant knowledge.

Medicinal plants are hardy; they can survive and flourish with little water or fertilizer. Extracting the useful chemicals is also easy, usually involving little more effort than making a pot of tea.

Na Tin Spicy Garden, just outside the beach resort of Ao Nang, in Krabi province, is a lush and leafy enclave and home to hundreds of medicinal and edible plants.

Retired pharmacist and keen botanist Piet created the garden in hope of enriching visitors’ appreciation and knowledge of medicinal plants and herbs.

On guided tours, Piet points out plants which have contributed to various conventional drugs, ranging from testosterone to laxatives.

He explains, “In some species the chemicals are found in the roots, while in others the leaves contain a useful sap. The best genus for a beginner herbalist is ginger, which includes turmeric and galangal. It is very easy to grow, isn’t toxic, and can be used as both a spice and a medicine.”

The rhizome - the knuckled root stalk - is the useful part which can be peeled, sliced and stewed with honey to make an aromatic and therapeutic tea.

Ginger is often used to relieve a long list of ailments including nausea, congestion, coughs, headaches, indigestion and inflammation. Research also suggests it may also help with arthritic pain and diabetes.

Turmeric is another useful household herb. The active ingredient, curcumin, found in the rhizomes, has many healing properties, as well as culinary, cosmetic and horticultural uses.

Herbalists believe turmeric is a powerful anti-inflammatory, and can provide considerable relief for rheumatoid arthritis sufferers. The herb is strongly linked with cancer prevention, particularly colonic cancer and is also believed to prevent Alzheimer’s disease, lower cholesterol and treat inflammatory bowel disease.

Turmeric is found in sun screens and the Thai government is currently funding a project involving the extraction of compounds which might have antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and skin lightening properties.

The plant is also an effective ant deterrent, making it a welcome addition to any Thai garden.

The ginger family is the ideal species for the amateur herbalist as it is easy to grow, prepare and store. The turmeric rhizome should be boiled, dried in the oven and ground into a deep orange powder, ready for use.

Na Tin Spicy Garden is an A to Z of herbal remedies, and home to many familiar plants such as coffee, tea, black pepper, chilli and an array of fruit trees, but behind pretty petals and delicate scents, there are also potential killers.

Allamanda and oleander are both popular ornamental plants in Thailand, but in Africa the milky juice and seeds are traditionally used for poison darts.

Find out more about plants that can cure you, or kill you, at Na Tin Spicy Garden. www.natinspicygarden.com

Monday, May 24, 2010

Holy bananas!


If you are ever stranded on a desert island, pray that somewhere on that island there is a banana plant. After consuming the energy-boosting fruit, you can use the leaves and stalk to build a shelter and a raft. Back on dry land, the plant has even more uses.

In the West the banana is an icon symbolizing healthy eating, comedy, and even sex. For decades the banana skin has entertained TV audiences, as cartoon characters slip on its skin, the ubiquitous hazardous fruit prop.

In Thailand, the banana is much more than a Looney Tunes punch line. Aside from being a staple in local diet, the plant is highly symbolic in traditional Thai culture. Almost every ceremony and festival incorporates elements of the banana plant, and every part is utilised, from the roots to the flower.

Often mistaken as a tree, the banana plant is actually a large herbaceous perennial, with a compact watery stalk, like a giant celery stick. There are around 30 different species in Thailand, and the fruit can be split into two varieties: the sweet dessert banana, and the cooking type.

Throughout Thailand bananas can be found in many forms: fresh, battered, grilled, baked, steamed, and sun dried; they can also be used to make jam and wine.

The teardrop-shaped banana blossom is also on the menu, and tastes similar to artichoke, another edible bud. This purple inflorescence is often served as an accompaniment to pad thai, nam prik and kanom jeen, while the plant’s tender inner stalk is used to make gaeng som, a pungent southern Thai curry.

After nutrition, the banana plant’s other major contribution to every day life is packaging and presentation. The broad waxy leaves are strong and waterproof, and make ideal wrappers for a long list of snacks, sweet meats and desserts.

Arrays of neatly folded packages containing of a myriad of tempting delights can be found in every Thai market. The leaf’s fragrant juices protect the food from burning while it is grilled, and add a subtle hint of flavour to the snack.

Despite its ubiquity, the banana plant is considered sacred. At the funeral of Princess Galayani Vadhana, the crematorium was decorated with dozens of intricately carved banana stalks, and her body was laid on a mat of banana leaves.

The beautiful flotilla of illuminated rafts which characterises the annual Loy Krathong Festival also incorporates the plant. Most krathongs are made from a cross-section of the plant’s stalk, and adorned with elaborately folded banana leaves.

A lot of superstitions and beliefs shroud the plant. A species known as ‘gluay tanee’, produces the best quality leaves but is never grown near a home, as it is believed that an evil and seductive female spirit (Tanee) resides in the tree.

In recent years a banana plant in a remote village shot to fame after it was rumoured that the plant could predict winning lottery numbers. Visitors flocked to the site to rub powder and water on the stalk in hope of deciphering lucky numbers as the solution dried.

The Thai idiom, ‘It’s like peeling a banana’, describing simple tasks, is similar to the English equivalent, ‘It’s a piece of cake’. It’s also a good indication of which nation enjoys a healthier lifestyle.

It seems the banana plant’s uses are as diverse as the plant itself.

Northern hill tribes still use the outer stalk as pig fodder, while the roots are ground into an organic fertiliser. The fibres inside the stalk can be dried to form a strong thread, and the sap can be used as a fabric dye.

In the past Thai boxers attacked the stalk as part of their training, and parents crafted traditional toys.

Some of these traditions are withering due to modernisation; however, the banana’s popularity remains unblemished. Much more than just a pretty fruit, the banana is deeply rooted in Thai culture and tradition.

Friday, April 16, 2010

A splashing good New Year!


I don’t get much sympathy from folk back home when I complain about the weather. Sheets of icy hail and thick blankets of drizzle definitely don’t feature on my much-missed list, but the suffocating heat here can be just as miserable.

This year, temperatures soared very early on in the hot season, without a single falling drop of liquid relief between January and April. Daily life in a torrid climate is far from paradise - the oppressive heat turns simple tasks into sweat-induced drudgery.

The fan blows hot air like a hairdryer, the cold water runs tepid and the poor dogs pant like they are gasping for their last breath. Housework becomes less appealing than ever; ironing when the temperature is 40c surely qualifies as a form of exercise?

By April, the parched nation eagerly awaits the first rains of the imminent monsoon season, and the refreshing cool air that blows in with it. On April 13th, Songkran Day, the whole country takes to the street to celebrate traditional Thai New Year and the beginning of the monsoon season. Thais certainly know how to throw a party, and this rain dance is the nation’s most vibrant celebration.

The traditional and religious aspects of the annual festival are often overshadowed by the wet and wild war of water which takes place throughout the Kingdom. Millions of Thais and travellers participate in the world’s largest water fight, congregating on the streets armed with pump-action water canons and buckets of cold water, plus plenty of alcoholic refreshments to fuel the excitement.

The sober elements of Songkran take place in Buddhist temples, where ceremonies and rituals mark the lunar New Year. However, to the disappointment of many traditionalists, the street-side water play characterises modern day Songkran. Equipped with garden hoses, overflowing barrels and powerful water guns, groups of hyped-up teenagers dance on the road and soak everyone and thing that passes by.

Pick-up trucks full of cheering revellers cruise the streets stopping to engage in water fights along the way. Even motorbike drivers and bus passengers don’t escape the soaking. And from toddling age onwards, children are at the centre of this massive splash fest.

Thai ‘lady boys’ are out in full glory, sporting their tightest and most revealing apparel for the wet t-shirt contest they always dreamed of winning.

It’s touching to witness an entire nation revert to child’s play, regardless of age, religion, politics or culture.

This national festival comes at a time when Thais are deeply concerned about the future of their country. The recent rash of rioting in Bangkok has caused injury and even deaths, and once again the Thai tourist industry falls victim to the unrest.

Visitors should avoid Bangkok, particularly areas where demonstrations are taking place. All other areas of the country are still safe for travel and there are many entry points. Travellers shouldn’t be deterred - Thailand needs tourists more than ever at this time, and it is still possible to enjoy a fantastic holiday here.

Despite the current turbulent tides of political conflict, Thailand managed to have a splashing good Songkran. Let’s hope New Year sees the return of peace and sanity to the streets of this fun-loving nation.

Thursday, March 25, 2010

Koh Yao Yai: a secret island hideaway


Despite the captivating beauty of the jewel encrusted Andaman coast, it is becoming increasingly difficult to find an island retreat that ticks all the boxes.

The ideal getaway has vision beyond the ‘superior sea view’ and offers guests an all-encompassing experience, as opposed to simply exploiting the natural backdrop.

While neighbouring islands parted with their virginity long ago, Koh Yao Yai remains unhurried in the rush to grow-up.

Just 30 minutes by speedboat from Phuket, Krabi and Phang Nga, Koh Yao Yai lies in the watery heart of one of the country’s most developed bays, yet the island remains pristine.

Approaching the island, visitors first catch sight of the vast quilt of forest green which covers the hillside without interruption. At the pier, a handful of thirty-something travellers eagerly eye up the verdant topography, their brows saluting the sky in praise.

Tucked away on a secluded bay, down a lane meandering through rice paddies and subtropical forestland, Koh Yao Yai Village Resort is the ultimate island hideaway.

If Mother Nature created an island resort, this is how it would look. All elements of design pay utmost respect to the natural landscape. From the layout to the materials used, the resort blends seamlessly with the surrounding environment.

Hidden under the dappled shade of the evergreen canopy, the tropical woodland village consists of 34 deluxe bungalows, generously spaced with more thought for guest experience than profit per square metre.

Despite their spacious 73 sq metre dimension, the tropical modern bungalows make no attempt to dominate the landscape; it is almost as if they sprang up from the forest floor with the rest of the abounding flora.

The interior features elegant wooden furniture, polished concrete floors and a spacious bathroom, complete with outdoor rain shower. Huge downy pillows, velvety bath towels and herbal toiletries add a luxurious feel, while the standard-size fridge and flat screen satellite TV are the perfect home comforts.

A myriad of local influences have been woven into the bungalow’s design, including splashes of rural-style sarong fabric in the soft furnishings.

The large terrace, with sunloungers and daybed, is the ideal place to spend balmy evenings listening to the soundtrack of the jungle.

Overlooking a 700 sq metre infinity pool, the resort’s thatched-roof restaurant enjoys a 180-degree panoramic vista of Phang Nga Bay. Sweeping from the curving sandbars on the west, across opaque islets silhouetted on the skyline, and to the forest-fringed shoreline on the east, the view showcases the region’s diverse landscape.

A selection of fresh and wholesome food is served, ranging from comfort fixes to healthy options, and everything in between. Themed barbeques have a regular slot and feature some of the island’s finest seafood.

Koh Yao Yai’s coast is adorned with gleaming-white, sandy beaches. Within the National Park area, Klong Son is widely considered the island’s most attractive beach. However, Laem Haad is the ultimate island paradise. Jutting into the sea, this narrow stretch of coconut grove is fringed with two shores that meet and merge into a perfect arc of sand.

Unlike the crowded beaches in Railay and Phuket, Koh Yao Yai’s shores are deserted and footprint free; visitors can have their own private beach for the day. In fact, the entire island is quiet and peaceful, which is a welcome escape from the pollution and overcrowding in neighbouring destinations.

The resort offers an array of tours which are personalized and casual, so despite delving deep into island culture, there is no intrusion on locals’ daily lives.

The village tour visits a rubber plantation, where visitors can view the various stages of rubber tapping, from its origin, as a milky, glue-like liquid dripping from the trees, to the pre-manufacture state, which, incidentally, resembles a bath mat.

Next stop is the fresh food market, to sample the rainbow of exotic fruits grown on the island. Markets are the social heart of any Thai village, so they are a great place to soak up the atmosphere and enjoy some friendly banter with locals

A visit to one of the rickety off shore fish farms is also part of the tour. These holding bays for lobster, snapper and shrimp, form the backbone of the island’s economy.

Although fresh flavoursome lobster isn’t a major feature in local diet; islanders enjoy the profit made from selling the coveted crustacean to mainland markets.

The last stop is at Fisherman’s Village, where a fresh catch of iridescent anchovies glint in the scorching midday rays as they are dried, in preparation for packaging and sale. Only the squeals of the local children break the peaceful silence, as they dash across the white-hot sand and dive into the sparkling sea.

It’s the simple encounters with nature, such as noticing a fruit-laden cashew nut tree or watching a hermit crab scampering across the shore under a beautiful shell, that enrich the experience of Koh Yao Yai.

Koh Yao Yai Village Resort is the epitome of ‘sabai’, which in Thai, means relaxing, comfortable and carefree. The resort doesn’t exploit the island’s beauty, but it enhances it by providing excellent service, facilities and a wide range of interesting activities. Few resorts score so highly in every area. This resort ticks all the boxes, and adds a few more that weren’t previously on the list.

Koh Yao Yai Village
Tel: +66 (0) 76 363700
E-mail: marketing@kohyaoyaivillage.com
www.kohyaoyaivillage.com

Sunday, March 21, 2010

School holidays: allow nature to do the entertaining



School holidays have arrived, so the Lego-covered road of parenting is about to get rockier. It’s time to draw up a plan of action. Embarking on the two month period without innovative tactics could lead to a long and gruesome battle.

You don’t need regimental structure every single day, but organizing regular outings and activities will help keep the kids’ boredom at bay and your insanity, well, to a minimum.

Although Krabi lacks any major school holiday survival centres such as water parks, there are places where kids can expend that endless supply of energy, while gaining new skills or knowledge.

Krabi is a great place for explorer Dora and Diego wannabes. Horse riding, elephant trekking and rock climbing are all great ways to get active while learning new facts about animals and experiencing the area’s diverse wildlife at close range.

At Nosey Parkers Elephant Camp in Ao Nang, kids can sit on top of the gentle giants as they plod through the leafy wilderness, upstream to the enchanting caves. They will catch sight of monkeys, birds and an array of colourful insects along the way, so their imaginations will be ticking away as the adventure unfolds.

The Giant Catfish Farm provides another fantastic opportunity to observe animals. Aside from the huge hungry catfish, there are rabbits, turtles, crocodiles and a very cute and playful baby parrot (sun conure). Hundreds of huge, wide-mouthed, whiskered catfish squirming and splashing will have little ones squealing with excitement and joy.

Care needs to be taken while exploring the site, but the rickety wooden walkways and meandering paths leading through the rampant jungle will bring all their favourite storybooks to life.

If your little Spiderman is climbing the walls just two days into his holiday, sign him up for a kid’s climbing course. Hot Rock Climbing School on Railay Beach has special routes for junior climbers and provides English-speaking instructors who are experienced in teaching children.

Aside from increasing their level of fitness, rock climbing helps children develop teamwork skills, trust, self-confidence and motivation. The school has equipment for children of ages, so even kids as young as three can find their inner monkey – as if it was ever lost.

If you’re not a crag addict yourself and have concerns for your child’s safety, talk to the friendly owner, Saralisa, who will explain the ‘top rope’ method, which is the very safest way to climb.

Klong Thom Museum does little to defy the stereotypical image of a dusty museum, but it does contain a good collection of ancient artefacts and fossils. The whale spine and fossilized turtles will catch children’s attention straight away, while a selection of ancient stone tools, ornaments and beads provide insight into life in Krabi 5000 years ago.

The museum is located inside Wat Klong Thom (temple) compound. The temple itself is a striking structure with intimidating nagas guarding the entrance from evil spirits. Here, children can learn about Buddhist worship and temple etiquette.

A WWII Navy ship docked in Krabi last month is currently being converted into a museum. Soon visitors will be able to board the imposing battlecruiser and experience the big guns and armoury first hand.

Tara Park is a welcome escape from the stifling heat during this excessively sultry season. The shady forested area overlooking the river is the ideal setting for a leisurely picnic lunch and fun art class. Stalls sell little white cartoon statues and paint palettes, so kids can get creative while parents kick back and enjoy some spicy som tam (papaya salad).

Children can gain a lot from yoga; aside from the obvious physical benefits, it improves their concentration and calmness. So perhaps it’s fair to say parents also enjoy the benefits. The new ‘Soul of Yoga’ studio in Krabi holds kid’s yoga classes every Saturday.

Although Krabi lacks a commercial fun outlet, there are still ways to entertain little ones. The surrounding nature provides the ultimate adventure playground, as well as an ideal backdrop for creative, spiritual and play-based learning.

Child experts believe exposure to nature stimulates all aspects of children’s development, in particular their observation, creativity and imagination. So there’s another good reason to leave the Lego on the floor and take today’s play outdoors.

Saturday, March 20, 2010

Eco-plan sustained for Krabi


Sustainable tourism has been the buzz phrase in the tourist industry for a while now, but a recent event in Krabi proved that both tourist operators and travellers consider it more than just a passing trend.

Rayavadee Resort hosted the Phranang - Railay Sustainable Tourism Development Project on March 9 and 10. The event's aim was not only to promote conservation and protection of the local surroundings and culture from the detrimental effects of tourism, but develop a model which can be used. throughout the Kingdom.

Having learnt from neighbouring Phuket's misguided moves early on in the game, Krabi is aware of the importance of guarding its rich heritage, deep rooted culture and outstanding natural beauty from mismanaged tourism.

Rayavadee Resort has been instrumental in developing and promoting sustainable tourism on the Phranang - Railay peninsula. The premier five star resort, which occupies 26 acres of lush vegetation set against sheer cliffs and the sparkling Andaman Sea, recycles both waste water and garbage.

Rayavadee's Chief Designer, Khun Garnchai explained, "The water recycling system ensures that waste water does not contaminate the sea. The recycled water is used for flushing toilets and watering the plants, which reduces the resort's overall water usage."

He explained how the resort also recycles waste materials from the kitchen and garden, to produce an organic fertilizer. This system addresses the urgent need to convert steep consumption gradients into cycles, where the output of one process becomes a useful input for another. By recycling waste, Rayavadee not only reduces the amount of rubbish disposed, but creates an effective soil regenerative.

The resort's annual mangrove planting involves schoolchildren, visitors and local government representatives anchoring new plant life in this important ecosystem. Aside from restoring nature, this initiative cultivates an environmental consciousness in the local community. By donating floating buoys, the resort also hopes to prevent further damage to the sea bed due to longtail anchors.

A final presentation on Phranang Beach, explained the social, economic and environmental benefits to the community. A signing board inviting tourists to comment on the initiative illustrated the growing demand for responsible ecotourism, as many visitors expressed their sincere hope for the programme's success and left email addresses to receive updates.

As tourism in Thailand relies so heavily on the appreciation of the country's thriving nature and vibrant culture, sustainable ecotourism needs to be recognized on a national level.

Few places on this earth combine the vast range of natural habitats and ecosystems to form the diverse landscape and marine environment of Krabi. Mangroves, beaches, islands, forests, karst caves and shallow reefs are so closely juxtaposed. Not to mention the myriad of cultures residing in the region.

The Railay Sustainable Tourism Development Project aims to protect Railay's many natural treasures and maintain the indigenous culture of the local communities. All efforts work towards ensuring the survival of the natural environment; the livelihood of the local community; and the dreams of those who hope to experience its exceptional beauty.

Saturday, February 27, 2010

Krabi steps into the luxury echelon


The click-clack of well-heeled travellers is a rare sound on the streets of Krabi. Many visitors only catch a glimpse of the modest little town through the tinted windows of their plush transfer vehicle, en route to some swanky beach resort.

In the past, Krabi never aspired to being anything more than a sleepy backpacker stopover; it was comfortable shuffling along in the same old familiar flip flops. But lately, the town has taken some baby steps towards a more comprehensive tourist infrastructure.

Without selling out to crude commerciality, Krabi is confidently carving a niche in the high end market. Using facets of leisure, art, culture and health to attract new interest, the town is gaining credibility and becoming a more appealing destination to affluent travellers.

The 46-berth marina, set to open at the end of March 2010, could bring a new wave of tourism with it. The marina is located close to the Krabi’s centre, and will provide a convenient gateway for luxury travellers. With this sturdy rung on the ladder, Krabi has the opportunity to climb to new levels of popularity and profitability.

As local hotels struggle to keep afloat during turbulent financial tides, luxury pool villas are becoming an increasingly popular choice of accommodation. These managed homes not only feature all the lavish trimmings of a high-end resort for a cheaper rate, but they are unparalleled in terms of privacy.

Pierre-Yves Loiers, the creative force behind Krabi Villa, describes the advantages a private pool villa has over a resort suite: “you can play music and drink champagne in the jacuzzi at 3am without causing any disturbance, enjoy a private butler service, and you tell us what time you want the cleaners to arrive.”

Krabi Villa provides guests with a mobile phone with speed dials for a poolside massage, free transport to the beach and the in-villa butler service. Every service can be tailored to suit guests’ individual needs, ensuring the ultimate relaxing experience.

Many luxury travellers are switching to this style of accommodation due to the maximized space, privacy and relaxation, not to mention considerable savings.

Krabi’s dining scene may lack the variety found in Phuket; however, it makes up for it with a few extra ladles of authenticity. Ruen Mai is Krabi’s longest-standing restaurant, and is well known beyond provincial borders, for its exceptional food and incredible ambience.

The restaurant is located in a concealed leafy oasis just outside the town centre. Lush nature paints the perfect backdrop for al fresco dining and Buddhist art pieces add an almost temple-like aura. The array of tasty classic Thai dishes, such as mango and cashew nut salad and tom yam kung (a hot and sour broth with shrimp), are always fresh and sensationally flavoursome.

This blend of delicious food, rustic décor and jungle ambience, ensures the restaurant remains a firm favourite among locals and visitors.

Across town, Takola Restaurant is a newer addition to Krabi’s dining scene, and also offers the winning combo of exotic setting and consistently good food. Takola trades tradition for trend; with brilliant white columns, waxy foliage and subdued lighting creating a modern tropical accent.

Takola prides itself on its range of healthy dishes, which are accompanied by a bed of mixed leaves, freshly picked from the on-site hydrophonic farm.

The chef adds a dash of elegance to everyday dishes by incorporating high quality ingredients. Diners can choose red curry with imported beef, or enjoy spring rolls stuffed with fresh river prawns; the restaurant excels at putting a classy spin on everyday fare.

The wine list features a number of good New World wines, which complement the restaurant’s signature spicy cuisine.

Luxury spa treatments are a necessary indulgence on any visit to Asia, and Kantawan Spa, in Krabi, offers a tranquil setting for some star-rated pampering. The traditional Lanna-style teak house overlooks a lotus pond, and the interior is thoughtfully designed using natural materials and subdued lighting to promote relaxation.

Asian massage, deep-cleansing facials and invigorating body scrubs are performed by professional therapists using nature’s finest ingredients; customers can also enjoy private use of the sauna and jacuzzi.

A stylish new yoga studio has recently opened in Krabi, and offers bilingual instruction in various styles of yoga. Soul of Yoga offers three classes each day, including hot yoga and children’s yoga.

Other noteworthy sites for the discerning traveller include Krabi Contemporary Art Gallery and Wat Gaew Korawaram. Works of national and international artists are exhibited in the new art gallery, many of which depict local landmarks and scenery. The new temple, which is still under construction, will house the South’s largest library of Buddhist literature.

In Krabi, visitors can immerse themselves in the rich local culture and enjoy a truly authentic experience, while still enjoying all the essential elements of a luxury holiday.

Which way to party?



One of things most visitors love about Krabi is the opportunity to have an authentic Thai experience without straying too far from familiarity. Delving into the local culture is a lot less daunting when there’s the comforting assurance of bread and coffee on the breakfast table each morning.

In Krabi, you can shovel rice like a local or grab a Colonel’s burger. You can elbow your way through the sweaty market or enjoy a leisurely spree at the mall. Similarly, after dark you can choose your preferred route on the party circuit.

Locals swarm to noisy, air conditioned live music venues, with scantily-clad hostesses and bottles of Johnny Walker, while Western revellers tend to frequent the tourist-orientated bars, where they are more hopeful to find some social interaction.

If you prefer to kick back with like-minded travellers and exchange tales and travel tips over a cold beer or a G’n’T, then Chao Fa Road is the best bet. Many of the bars along this main tourist strip have pool tables, live sports action on large screen TVs and cocktail menus to write home about.

A healthy expat community ensures the candle stays aglow on a nightly basis, and their impromptu parties in venues such as Fu Bar, Chilling Room and the Rooftop Bar are well worth gate crashing. These bars are all located along Krabi’s main tourist hub, Chao Fa Road.

Fu Bar is Krabi’s main rasta den, featuring compulsory tricolour décor, reggae beats and a team of dreaded and tattooed characters. Low tables and floor cushions allow the crowd to mingle without much effort, and the pool table often sparks some friendly rivalry between travellers and locals.

Across the road, the leprechauns have been chased out of town, and a new, sophisticated lounge has replaced the beer-stained eyesore that was the Irish Bar. Chilling Bar certainly knows how to deliver the ideal blend of comfort, class and of course, cocktails.

Whether it’s a griddled steak or a seven-piece live band from Malaysia, it’s served mighty hot with lashings of devotion from the new owner, despite being the coolest joint in town. This is one of the few bars where you can find a mixed Thai and Western clientele.

Further up the social slope, The Rooftop Bar is a bright and breezy spot for sinking a few cocktails as the sun heads south. The sweeping views of the town and surrounding coastline are sure to unsteady your legs, if they aren’t already jelly-like from the arduous hike up the steps.

On entering the bar, the necessary climb is quickly forgiven and forgotten. The Rooftop’s chic open-air deck offers welcome relief from the stifling ground-level heat, and the uber-cool bar stools provide the perfect perch for sipping the bar’s exotic signature cocktail.

Travellers who brave the Krabi club scene will be rewarded, not with free drinks or even a guaranteed enjoyable night, but with an invaluable glimpse of Thai club culture. Every aspect, from the lay-out to the line-up, differs dramatically from the average Western nightclub, so it is always an eye-opening experience for the curious traveller.

Crazy Pub is the town’s most central nightspot, located on Maharat Road close to the Shell garage. From 21:00 the house band blast out renditions of popular Thai pop and rock songs, to a mostly seated crowd - until the whiskey kicks in and they find their feet.

Weeknights are quite tame, but the venue can be very crowded on weekends, when young revellers are out in full force. Locals tend to bring their own bottle of whiskey or brandy, but the bar is quite well stocked with local and imported beers, as well as some spirits such as gin and vodka.

Most bands are fronted by an attractive female singer, whose repertoire usually includes a few familiar hits from home (which never seem to get old in Thailand).

On the same road, Room 69 is a modern venue with the latest hi-tech sound and lighting equipment, an outdoor terrace and different bands playing each night. Seating is limited and most clubbers congregate around elevated tables. Although few people actually dance, a sea of raised arms beat out the popular anthems mid air.

After the band raps up, a DJ pumps out thumping Thai trance and techno. Tracks are played at high speed and interrupted often by the DJ talking on the mic, spoiling the flow for those who want to dance. Although the crowd begins to disperse after the band finishes around 01:00, punters can drink and dance well into the wee hours.

It’s definitely worth hitting some of these hotspots while in Krabi, just to experience this unique brand of clubbing. Interacting with the locals is sure to be one of the main highlights of your trip, and even if the barriers of language get in the way, there are always glasses to clink.

Crazy Pub and Room 69 are both located on Maharat Road; Fu Bar, Chilling Bar and Rooftop Bar are located on Chao Fa Road.



Krabi welcomes a new season with Boek Fa Andaman Festival



Every year during November, Krabi celebrates the beginning of a new season of tourism with the ‘Boek Fa Andaman Festival’ which means - ‘Opening the Andaman Sea’. After the long rainy season, locals gather in anticipation of the influx of tourists over the coming months.

Tourism is the mainstay of Krabi’s economy and as new arrivals touch down, there is great hope among the community for a long, prosperous season. The festival is also a celebration of the rich diversity of cultures in the region - the food and crafts on sale reflect the infusion of styles from India, Malaysia and China.

While past festivals had featured exhibits drawn exclusively from within Krabi Province, this year, traditional arts and crafts from each of the fourteen Southern provinces were on display.

The festivities commenced on November 20 in Tara Park, close to the town centre. After dark, the vibrant market scene was beautifully illuminated against the Krabi River. Hundreds of shoppers browsed the range of basket-ware, textiles, jewellery, coconut products, plants and furniture. Aromas filled the air as vendors concocted an array of mouthwatering snacks and desserts, demonstrating their unique cooking techniques.

Each night, the main stage hosted a wide variety of entertainment including shadow puppet shows known as ‘Nang Talung’, traditional southern Thai dance or ‘Manora’, as well as upcoming local bands and singers.

‘Nang Talung’ is the indigenous performing art in the south of Thailand. It uses figures cut from animal leather, elaborately painted and attached to bamboo sticks. These figures are manipulated from behind a screen, accompanied by narration, dialogue and music in an hour-long story from Ramayana, an ancient Sanskrit epic. The chief of Nang Talung sits behind the screen and not only narrates the play but provides dialogues for each of the puppets. It is a hugely popular form of entertainment and a regular feature of festivals in this area.

Manora dancing is revered by Thais throughout the country and originates from the southern province of Pattalung. It is the dance of a half human, half bird creatures featured in Ramayana. Dancers at the festival wowed the audience with their elegant gestures and colourful costumes.

A second smaller stage featured performances from local musicians. Isalee Mala played traditional Thai folk music known as ‘Rong Ngeng’, and there were also appearances by Jellyfish band, featuring Choy and Thai reggae sensation Job2do.

Rong Ngeng music is played on violins, mandolins, Arabian drums and Chinese gongs accompanied by old fashioned Western dances. It is still prominent in Koh Lanta, where the first settlers inherited the legacy from the Portuguese, who had been the first Europeans to trade with Thailand.

Local musician and tsunami survivor Choy, whose real name is Piyasak Guntharungsi, performed a selection of songs he composed for his debut album Andaman : Lesson of Loss. The album is an expression of his mixed emotions about the tsunami, but ultimately Choy uses the power of music to send a message to the world, encouraging people to visit the islands and areas worst affected by the tsunami.

Choy explained the purpose of the festival: “It marks and celebrates the beginning of a new tourist season for Krabi. It is the end of the monsoon, when the rain disappears and tourists can enjoy the surrounding nature and good weather once again.”

He added: “Krabi is blessed with beautiful beaches, mountains, islands, hot springs and forests. It is a central point on the Andaman coastline and a gateway to so many other idyllic holiday destinations, for example - Phuket, Ko Lanta, Koh Phi Phi. We are very proud to reside in Krabi, it is a special place with so much culture and endless activities on offer. The international airport also makes it very accessible.”

Job2Do brought a slightly more contemporary sound to the festival performing a selection of his popular reggae songs. The crowds thronged to watch the undisputed Thai king of reggae, complete with synchronized fire show.

The festival was a showcase for Krabi’s charm, hospitality and rich heritage. Krabi is well and truly open for business.

Ang Thong Archipelago - Koh Samui

Consisting of around 40 small islands, 27 kilometres from Koh Samui, the Ang Thong Archipelago is a scene of incomprehensible beauty. Perhaps Mother Nature sprinkled her magic in the sea to create this isolated paradise away from the destructive hands of mankind. The group of irregular limestone karsts jut out of the emerald sea in a haphazard arrangement. A verdant carpet softens the jagged contours of the mountains and glowing fringes of white sand define the shoreline.

All of the islands are uninhabited, apart from one, Lok Paluay, which is home to a band of sea-gypsies, or ‘Chaolay’ as they are locally known as. These sea-faring nomads can be found along many isolated stretches of coastline in the south of Thailand, and have their own distinct culture based around animistic beliefs. They make their living from fishing, often using very primitive equipment with great skill. Despite cultural differences including their own language, the sea gypsies have lived in harmony with all other Thai religions for many centuries.

The island’s topography provides the ultimate tropical adventure playground. Caves, lagoons and hidden natural treasures spark images of classic desert island movies. Opportunities for exploration and discovery are endless. An arduous climb on Koh Mae Ko (Mother Island) is well rewarded with views of an emerald saltwater lake fully enclosed by a ring of towering limestone cliffs and connected to the sea by an underground tunnel.

Ang Thong translates as ‘golden bowl’, and refers to this isolated lake which resembles a brilliant gleaming bowl, protected by the encircling mountains. Many of the islands are named after their distinguishing features, including ‘Sleeping Cow Island’ and ‘Three Pillar Island’. Some islands have passageways leading to lofty peaks, where panoramic views across the Ang Thong Archipelago allow visitors the chance to appreciate this spectacular natural creation in its entirety.

Ang Thong Archipelago is a National Park which means the island’s wildlife is protected and allowed to flourish in an untouched environment. The wooded areas of the park can be classified as dry evergreen forest, beach forest and limestone forest. Dry evergreen forests dominate the larger islands, beach forests provide shade on the beach, and the limestone forests sprout from the soil covered areas of the mountains.

Only small animals inhabit the islands, and the 16 species of mammals include otters, langurs, crab-eating monkeys, hogs and silver haired bats. Dolphins and whales have also been spotted off shore. More than 54 species of bird, 14 species of reptile and five species of amphibians also reside in the National Park. The surrounding water is teeming with tropical fish, crabs, oysters and a rainbow of coral carpets the sea floor.

The sheer scale of the archipelago means it is possible to find secluded beaches away from the crowds, where you can concoct your own desert island fantasy. The islands are a great spot for water based activities such as kayaking and snorkelling. Kayakers can paddle through mysterious caves and examine the fascinating stalactite dripstones at close range. Snorkelling provides a window to view the thriving underwater world of vibrant colour and curious form.

Koh Sam Sao boasts a massive coral reef, and is a popular with snorkellers. This hilly island is also a great place to admire a panoramic view of the National Park. The most rewarding time to snorkel in the Ang Thong Archipelago is from late March until October, this is when visibility is at its best. However the islands can be visited all year round, with only the monsoon season occasionally disrupting the sunshine from September until November.

Accommodation is available at the National Park Headquarters in Koh Wua Talap, in the form of basic bungalows, however most visitors arrive on day trips. Travelling to the archipelago by speedboat means you can explore the islands in a smaller group and avoid the masses. The large tour boats carry up to 50 people, and involve transferring to a longtail boat in order to reach your island of choice

Photographers will get lost in the scenery. From the karst-silhouetted seascapes to the mountainous interiors and the abundant wildlife, this stunning setting certainly isn’t camera shy. The most popular activity on the islands is simply enjoying their incredible beauty and tranquillity. The islands’ sandy shores provide a relaxing haven for soaking up the sun’s glorious rays and contemplating this tropical paradise.

Laanta Lanta Festival: A celebration of cultural diversity


The Laanta Lanta Festival is held annually on Koh Lanta Yai during the month of March. The event celebrates the eclectic mix of cultures and traditions found across the island. In a world where so many nations are divided by religious and cultural differences, it is inspiring to behold this crucible of cultures, where people can reside together in peace and harmony.

The Koh Lanta archipelago is made up of more than fifty small islets, most of which are uninhabited; Koh Lanta Yai is the most popular with tourists and also has the largest population. The island’s topography consists mainly of abundant forest land, mountainous terrain, pristine beaches and plentiful marine resources. Koh Lanta’s original name was ‘Palau Satak’ which means ‘long beach island’ in Malay. In 1917 it was officially changed to Koh Lanta - thought to come from the Javanese word for ‘fish grill’.

Lanta Old Town, located on the South Eastern coast, is worth visiting at any time of year. Once a major sea port and the commercial centre for the island, it provided a safe harbour for Arabic and Chinese trading vessels sailing between Phuket, Penang and Singapore. The town’s status changed fifty years ago with the advent of roads and automobiles, which linked the island with the mainland - now tourism and fishing are the main source of income for the locals. Despite the growing tourist industry, Lanta Old Town retains its quaint charm. Sino-style wooden shop fronts and stilted houses are evidence of a rich history as well as the diverse mix of cultures residing in the area.

The Old Town is home to three main ethnic groups: Chao Ley (Sea Gypsies), Thai-Muslim and Thai-Chinese. The Chao Ley preceded the Malay (Muslim) immigrants while the Chinese merchants arrived more than 100 years ago.

The Chao Ley have occupied the area for over 500 years, settling along the coast in houses built upon stilts. They are unique in that they speak their own language, have animist beliefs and retain close ties with the sea. Thai-Muslims make up the majority of the population and the Thai Chinese settlers have assimilated into local community working as business owners, agricultural farmers and fishermen. There is no religious tension between these groups and they have lived together in peace and harmony for hundreds of years. The ethnic diversity is reflected in the old Sino-style houses, mosques, Buddhist temples and traditional Thai housing styles, all on one island.

The Laanta Lanta Festival is held each year as a celebration of this unique community spirit, locals and visitors congregated to enjoy an array of cultural facets still prevalent on the island today. Festivities commenced on March 7 - lasting three days and nights - featuring music, dance, cultural performances and markets. Glowing red Chinese lanterns illuminated the streets while the aroma of incense and spice filled the night air. Vendors lined the town’s streets, as locals and tourists browsed the waterside stalls admiring the old wooden Chinese shop-fronts. Craftsmen and artists from the surrounding area exhibited a variety of goods, including leather, jewellery, batik and a miscellany of souvenirs.

The Old Town’s melting pot of cultures is well represented in the local cuisine. Aromatic flavours, originating from India, Malaysia and China are infused in a variety of dishes such as Chinese noodles in fish curry (Kanom Jeen) and Malaysian style chicken in yellow rice with roasted spice (Khao Mok Gai).

The vibrancy and freshness of the ingredients alone is enough to whet your appetite. Bright yellow juicy corns, freshly caught fish and exotic juices served in bamboo beakers tempted the taste buds of passing shoppers.

The main stage stood brightly illuminated at the water’s edge while smaller cultural displays of music and dance taking place close to the Old Town Museum. The first act to take to the main stage was Assalee Mala, a band well known throughout Thailand for it’s traditional Thai Rong Ngeng folk music. Rong Ngeng is a style of folk music and dance incorporating western style dance steps while music is played on violins, Arabian drums and Chinese gongs accompanied by Malaysian lyrics.

‘Rong Ngeng’ has been popular on Koh Lanta for over a century and is often played at weddings, festivals and by sea gypsies. There have been many recent attempts to keep the music alive, particularly in Koh Lanta and other Southern areas of Thailand. The band’s violinist known as “Mac”, explained: “We enjoy playing all over Thailand but we love playing in Koh Lanta and close to the Malaysian border. The music originates from here so there is a great atmosphere among the crowd.” Mac also alluded to what makes the Laanta Lanta Festival special: “The amazing mix of culture and traditions makes it an exciting experience. You can try so many different styles of food and hear a variety of music. It is fun for everyone involved. Tourists can learn a lot about the interesting history of this island and take home some great memories,” he said

The festival was an impressive and enjoyable showcase of the cultural diversity of Koh Lanta. Most importantly, it is a positive example to the world how people of different ethnic groups can live together peacefully and respectfully.