Thailand's wine country

Think Hua Hin, and wine isn’t the first thing that springs to mind. But in the sultry heart of the southwestern Thai tropics, a region more famous for its beaches than its wine, there is a vineyard proving popular with tourists.

A hot climate isn’t conducive to grape-growing - according to text books anyway, but there are viticulture regions in Central Thailand where a new genre of wine and travel are flourishing.

Siam Winery is defying the belief that wine-making grapes can not be successfully grown in tropical climates. The company’s ‘Monsoon Valley’ wine, produced exclusively from Thai-grown grapes is exported to 20 countries. Last month, the label won five awards at the 13th Japan Wine Challenge, to add to its accolades.

Wines produced within this latitude band have been labelled New Latitude Wines. Many experts believe their terroir (the personality of a wine due to environmental factors) complements Thai cuisine.

The winery’s vineyard (huahinhillsvineyard.com) is located on a former elephant corral, around 40 kilometres from downtown Hua Hin. A transfer service from Hua Hin Market shuttles visitors to and from the site; minibuses depart from the town at 10:30 and 15:00. It is essential to book your seat on the minibus in advance (telephone: 032 526 351).

After a 40 minute drive through the rolling hills of Hua Hin, visitors are greeted by a landscape which could almost pass for Napa Valley. Until an ambling elephant gives the location away.

Neat rows of fruit-laden vines lead the eye to the winery’s Sala Bar and Bistro which overlooks the fruit fields. Designed by former Norman Foster architect, Sylvia Soh, the sala pavilion’s design was recently cited by the World Architecture Community Awards for receiving the admiration of many of their honorary members.

Under the free-flowing curved roof of the sala, the wine bar and bistro is the perfect perch for dining and drinking up the view through a glass of the winery’s finest.

The bistro’s menu offers guidance on pairing Monsoon Valley’s wine with a selection of Thai appetizers such as satay, calamari and seafood salad, as well as main course grills which include cuts of imported beef.

Pairing wine and Thai cuisine is often challenging – even for the experts, but the chef’s picks make perfect palate sense. For example, the aromatic Shiraz Special Reserve is a divine partner for the spicy beef salad with grapes, and the crispness of the Colombard complements the zesty seafood salad.

Standard fare, such as fried rice, spaghetti, and sandwiches, is also available but carries the usual levy for the above-standard setting.

Entrance to the site is free, but it’s a good idea to book an organized tour if you want to gain real insight into the concept of New Latitude wine.

A tour package consisting of a wine pairing and tasting session, video presentation, vineyard tour by elephant back, and a souvenir, costs 1,200 baht. For 600 baht more you can add a three course meal to the package. Transfer to and from the site is an additional 200 baht.

If the abounding nature or inspiring architecture tickles your artistic side, you can purchase a label-making set and create a unique souvenir. Sets including a mock-up wine bottle, stick-on label and paints cost 300 baht.

The winery is open all year but just before harvest season - from late November until early March – visitors can view the vines laden with bunches of plump rosy grapes.

A visit to the winery consumes half a day, freeing up time to explore other nearby attractions. Pa La-U Waterfall in Kaeng Krachan National Park is nearby and well worth a dip mid-afternoon. Hiking the 15 tiers to the top, is no walk in the park, but experiencing the unique natural beauty of each level makes it worth the mosquitoes, sweat and leeches.

Other local attractions include Khao Takiab (Chopstick Mountain) with its quaint little hilltop temple, and Khao Sam Roi Yod National Park which is home to one of Asia’s most diverse bird populations.

Travel between Phuket and Hua Hin is time-consuming: it’s a seven hour drive. Taking the scenic route through Ranong adds some visual pleasure despite lengthening the journey. Coaches take 10 hours and while the overnight train from Surat Thani guarantees a bed, it adds an extra leg to the journey.

Regardless of your mode of transport, be sure to make a stop at Hua Hin Railway Station. Thailand’s oldest and most beautiful railway station was once a Royal pavilion in Nakon Pathom.

Accommodation in Hua Hin varies from basic guesthouse digs to plush five star luxury pads. If being within easy access to the night market, beach, and local amenities is more important than in-room spa services and a squash court, you can find a good room for around 1000 baht.

Hua Hin still possesses most of the old Siam charm the travel guides rave about, but visit on a weekday so it isn’t obscured by Thai tourists.

Roughing it down south

Few places in the world boast landscape as diverse as the Andaman Coast. Handsome limestone outcrops rise from an emerald sea, fringed with brilliant arcs of white. Ancient forests cling to the peachy rock face, providing a sanctuary for families of the wild.

Along the coast, an organised entanglement of mangrove roots forms an important ecosystem, while inland, geo-thermal water pools in a jungle clearing.

This serene setting provides relief from the afflictions of city life. It’s an escape from monochrome shades and mundane routine. It’s also a reminder of a disappearing world, and the need to protect it.

As many coastal areas of southern Thailand have been greedily engulfed by a wave of commercial development, travellers seeking adventure a little more low-key, have to plough deeper into rural areas to find true adventure travel.

In the northwest of Trang province, the small coastal community of Bo Hin is becoming known as a destination abundant in natural riches and as a sought after location for farmstay holidays.

The farmstay consists of a series of rickety shacks, perched on the water’s edge. It is run by a team of 19 local boatmen, fishermen, weavers and cooks. Having pledged their skills, equipment and time, they offer visitors a captivating experience of the Bo Hin area.

The eco-mind behind the project is a warm and welcoming local, Mr Bonjoan. He explained two-fold purpose of the farmstay, “I wanted to develop a project that would bring prosperity to the community, and at the same time raise awareness about protecting our environment.”

Mr Bonjoan said the local community pulled together to make the farmstay a reality. “A group of us got together and made a list of what we could offer in terms of both skills and equipment. After adding it up we realized we could provide tourists an opportunity to experience local farming life, as well as our culture,” he said.

The stilted wooden homestead consists of three main rooms connected by a passageway, which also serves as a meeting point, restaurant, and pier. Within each main room there are private bedrooms with ensuite bathrooms, plus a communal lounge area with TV, sofa and books. Accommodation is clean, airy and cool.

Visitors are invited to join locals as they complete their daily tasks. Early risers can learn how to tap rubber and the various stages of preparing the rubber for manufacturing.

There is also the chance to join local fishermen as they head out to the Gulf of Sikao. Guests can cast nets in the Andaman waters, and their catch of the day will be cooked and served upon their return.

Back on dry land, the village women exchange news and chat while making handcrafted goods from pandanus leaves. Joining in this activity provides the chance to enjoy some banter with locals while trying your hand at weaving.

A longtail boat trip with Mr Bonjoan, or one of his crew, is the best way to fully appreciate the natural beauty of the coastline. Boat trips take you through dense mangroves before navigating around groups of towards towering limestone karsts.

Rows of stalactites jut from overhangs on the rocks, while below the lapping water spills into a dark cave as a white bellied sea eagle skims the surface, talons clenched, ready to swoop on unsuspecting prey.

Patches of deep pile emerald carpet soften the harsh rock face while the creamy contours of the limestone melt into the turquoise sea. A small lonesome palm tree sprouts from a cliff; its trunk curling downwards but fronds reaching out towards the warm sun.

Mr Bonjoan is keen to share his knowledge of the local area with visitors, and points out the various islands, beaches, and caves where fishermen take shelter from turbulent monsoon storms. He is also involved in programs to preserve local marine life, a matter close to his heart.

The waters in the area are home to a population of dugongs, or sea-cows, an almost-extinct marine mammal, largely dependent on sea grass.

Recent surveys show that the number of dugongs in the area has dropped in the last year. In a bid to help, Mr Bonjoan has started a sea grass planting scheme to create a more abundant food source and save the species from extinction.

Bo Hin Farmstay is a fantastic example of how tourism can help preserve local nature, customs and traditions. Instead of adapting their ways to accommodate visitors, locals invite guests to share in their everyday life and learn about the environment. It’s quite an eye-opener.

Sator: much more than a stinky bean

Love it or loathe it, there is no avoiding the sator bean (petai) this season. Dangling from trees and market stalls throughout the southern region, the distinctive green twisted cluster bean is in abundance at present.

The sator tree grows to a lofty 30 metres and bears long pods studded with up to 15 bright green edible seeds. Pods are harvested from trees and sold in bunches at local markets and street stalls; seeds are also extracted and sold by weight.

While the wayward curly pods have an interesting appearance, there is so much more to this bean; the almond-shaped seed is a leguminous powerhouse of nutrition.

Packed with protein, potassium, iron and fibre, the beans are widely believed to offer a number of health benefits and effectively conquer a range of ailments including high blood pressure, PMS and constipation.

Unfortunately, there are some less appealing side effects. Similar to other beans, their complex carbohydrate content can cause strong-smelling flatulence. And similar to asparagus, certain amino acids found in sator add a green tinge to urine, as well as intensifying the smell.

The bean’s odour is very pervasive, and can linger in the mouth and excretory system of the body for two to three days, which explains how it earned its nickname, ‘stink bean’.

Despite its off-putting qualities, sator is a highly regarded member of the pea family (leguminosae) in southern Thailand, Myanmar, Malaysia, Indonesia and north east India. The shelled beans are also pickled in brine and exported to the West.

First and foremost, the beans are rich in complex carbohydrates, and combined with their high fibre content, they provide an instant and substantial energy boost. Their high fibre content not only helps avoid constipation, but is also proven to benefit diabetics.

Eating sator can help those suffering from obesity to cut out comfort eating. Sator’s high complex carbohydrate content gives a feeling of fullness and tends to satisfy the comfort eater’s cravings for starch, so they are less likely to gorge on the wrong foods between meals.

Sator beans are bursting with potassium, plus they are very low in salt, making them hugely effective at reducing high blood pressure. So much so, the petai industry has been authorized to make official claims about the bean’s ability to reduce the risk of high blood pressure and strokes by the US Food and Drug Administration.

Potassium is also linked to improving memory and concentration, so sator is could be termed as a ‘brain food’. Encouraging children to eat more sator may lead to increased academic performance.

Sator contains vitamin B6. Many women take a Vitamin B6 supplement to alleviate premenstrual symptoms, as the vitamin plays an active role in synthesizing the brain chemicals which control mood and behaviour. By including sator in diet there is no longer any need to take a pill as the bean is a rich resource.

Sator is rich in a variety of amino acids including tryptophan. Nicknamed the ‘good mood amino acid’, tryptophan has the ability to increase levels of serotonin in the brain and consequently induce feelings and happiness and elation. Combined with the feel-good factor high carbohydrate content, the bean has mood enhancing qualities and can help lift the mood of those suffering depression.

According to a recent survey completed by MIND, many people suffering from depression felt considerably better after eating petai beans. Eating sator may help sufferers of SAD (Seasonal Affective Disorder).

Petai bean’s high sugar content makes it a good snack for keeping morning sickness at bay. It is also high in iron, so people suffering from anaemia should include petai in their diet to stimulate the production of haemoglobin.

Sator’s ability to neutralize over-acidity in the stomach means it is an effective antacid and can ease heartburn and help ulcers.

In Thai culture, some foods are believed as ‘cooling’ and able to lower both the physical and emotional temperature of expectant mothers. Pregnant women in Thailand eat large quantities of sator beans in hope that their baby is born with a cool temperament.

The inside of the petai bean can also be used to treat mosquito bites. Many people find rubbing their finger inside the skin of the bean and applying to the bite reduces swelling and irritation.

Sator is a natural remedy for many ailments. Compared to an apple, a serving of sator has four times the amount of protein, twice the carbohydrate and five times the vitamin A and iron.

In Thailand sator beans are usually stir-fried in a curry with shrimp or eaten raw with nam prik (shrimp paste).

The mildly bitter taste and lingering smell may be off-putting initially, but with so much to offer in terms of health and nutrition it is definitely a taste worth acquiring.

Rolling destinations in SEA

While a handful of resorts and tour operators are thinking outside of the standard-sized box, the island of Phuket remains largely inaccessible to physically challenged travellers.

Navigating urban areas in Phuket can be extremely challenging for wheelchair-bound tourists. Pavements are uneven and often obstructed by large advertising boards. Few buildings provide ramps or handrails, and many doorways are too narrow to allow wheelchairs to pass through.

Disabled visitors are limited to touring the island by taxi and while many taxi drivers are often helpful, they are not trained to assist disabled passengers.

As one of Thailand’s premier holiday destinations, Phuket doesn’t fulfil its unwritten duty to accommodate all types of traveller. Fortunately, there are some wheelchair-friendly destinations within easy reach of Phuket.

Thanks to an informative blog published by disabled residents, Hanneke and Jan van der Line, the beach resort of Hua Hin is emerging as a shiny new pin on the disabled traveller’s wall map.

Hua Hin is best known as a royal retreat and popular weekend escape for wealthy Bangkokians; however, international tourists are also well catered for, including those with physical disabilities.

Thanks to its Royal presence, Hua Hin remains unblemished by the rash of girly bars and jet skis commonly associated with tourism; the Kingdom’s oldest beach resort retains its quaint charm and is a blissfully peaceful retreat.

The grandeur of Old Siam echoes from the town’s quaint streets and colonial mansions, including Thailand’s oldest hotel which was originally built as a venue for royal parties thrown by the Queen.

Jan, who is wheelchair bound, and his wife Hanneke, enjoy life in Hua Hin, and recommend the town as a holiday destination for disabled travellers. The couple have designed and built two holiday homes which are fully adapted for wheelchair users.

Visitors can choose from a spacious pool villa close to the beach, or a modern downtown apartment. Both include features such as electrically adjustable beds, roll-in showers and manual pool hoists.

The downtown location suits travellers who enjoy easy access to markets and restaurants, while pool villa guests are only a quick roll from the beach, massage salons and bars.

Their travel blog (wheelchairthailand.blogspot.com) provides useful information for disabled visitors, such as details of accessible temples, markets and bars for viewing live sports action.

Hanneke explains, “We believe Hua Hin is a good destination for wheelchair users as an array of attractions such as the teak wood palace, the beach, temple grounds and shopping malls are relatively easy to access, as well as many cultural shows, bars and restaurants.”

Other wheelchair-friendly destinations within easy reach from Phuket include Singapore. Four airlines operate regular flights from Phuket International Airport and the journey time is just under two hours.

Singapore may be Southeast Asia’s smallest country, but in terms of mobility impaired access, the city-state is miles ahead of its neighbours.

Disabled travellers can get around the city with ease as the subway (Mass Rapid Transit – MRT) has lifts and specially adapted wide gates, and many bus routes are served by wheelchair accessible buses.

The airport shuttle service has wheelchair access and there are two taxi companies offering facilities for disabled passengers. The Handicaps Welfare Association is just one such organisation that provides transport services in the form of vans fitted with hydraulic lifts.

Based on transportation alone, Singapore is in a different league of accessibility from Phuket.

Judy Wee, Principal Consultant at Levelfields Consultants explains, “Singapore is a fantastic and accessible holiday destination for travellers with physical disabilities. Tourist attractions, shopping malls and restaurants are all easy to access. There are many places to visit including Singapore Zoo, Night Safari, Sentosa Island and Marina Barrage.”

Singapore Zoo allows visitors to experience a world of fascinating nature at close range. The site is sectioned into geographical locations, such as the Australian Outback and Wild Africa and visitors can experience wildlife from every corner of the globe.

Approximately 90 percent of Singapore Zoo is accessible to wheelchair users and buildings housing the various exhibitions and animal shows can be entered by ramp. Visitors will find similar facilities attractions throughout Singapore.

Judy, who understands the anxiety of travellers with disabilities, recommends that in-bound visitors contact travel agents who specialise in making arrangements for tourists with special needs.

Patrick Ang, Manager of Asia Travel Group Pte Ltd, who is a paraplegic and an avid traveller, fully understands the needs of wheelchair-bound visitors. Patrick customises packages to suit the interests of visitors. A recent customer, Julie Chong, describes the service provided by Asia Travel Group Pte Ltd, “Meticulous staff helped us find the best value for our budget and advised us on accessible hotels close to sights, as well as accessible transport.”

Singapore is certainly rolling ahead of Phuket regarding catering to disabled travellers needs. An accessible destination needs to offer more than a disabled toilet and parking space; every aspect of travel needs to be considered.

Phuket’s accessibility needs a complete overhaul in order to become a destination physically challenged travellers can thoroughly enjoy, starting with public transportation. After all, without transport, travel is impossible.

Krabi Night Plaza

Last month saw the opening of Krabi’s brand new night plaza, an event which was christened with five nights of live music, cultural acts, shopping and socialising. Spirits were high and the tone of the party signalled much hope for the forthcoming high season.

The neat little bamboo retail village is the first stage of a plan to regenerate an area of wasteland close to the town centre. Project developer and ex-Mayor, Chuan Phukaoluan, recognised the site’s potential and enlisted the help of innovative architect and popular musician, P Choy, to create a new heart for Krabi’s social scene.

Chuan explains, “This location is so close to the town’s most popular attractions, it makes sense to offer visitors a more extensive range of amenities.” He also revealed that future plans include the development of a tower hotel, overlooking Krabi’s iconic twin peaks, Khao Khanab Nam.

A good percentage of the shop units have been snapped up by retailers who have cottoned on to the need to offer shoppers something fresh and organic. Finally business owners in Krabi are beginning to ditch the copycat mentality and trust their own imagination. Edgy fashion boutiques and retro coffee shops might be new kids on the Krabi block, but locals were keen to acquaint.

After a round of retail therapy, a slinky cocktail at Amata Bar is the perfect chaser. This little gem of a bar has not only revived Krabi’s live music scene, but dug out a cosy watering hole for Krabi’s expat community. Laidback weeknights play to the sound of acoustic folk songs, while weekends feature classic rock mixed with more upbeat ensembles.

The space has been designed to accommodate concerts, exhibitions and other events. The on-site spa is in the final stages of completion and will soon add an additional dash of luxury to the experience. Krabi Night Plaza is open every evening from 17:00 until late.

the gold beyond the sunset

From an aesthetic point of view, Phuket is an endless slideshow of exquisite scenery. Idyllic beaches, tumbling waterfalls and forest-capped karsts are some of the region’s most photographed features.

An image of a dazzling white sandy beach makes an attractive screensaver and is sure to impress colleagues, but by spinning around 190 degrees and recomposing your shot, you may capture a scene which tells so much more about the setting.

For example, a photo of a beachside som tam (papaya salad) vendor, her face deeply creased from a lifetime’s worth of smiles and trials, is a reminder that ‘paradise’ is a wearing workplace for some. The genuine warmth of the local people is also radiated from this single image. In fact, there are enough threads to spin dozens of tales, while the postcard beachscape shot is usually only worth a handful of over-used adjectives.

Early risers will be rewarded; not only does the morning light enhance the warmth of photos, but it is the best time to observe the local culture.

A saffron-robed monk wandering barefoot along an empty street lit by the glow of a rising sun is a peaceful and calming image. As residents offer alms, a close-up of their closed eyes and graceful wai (bowing of head while hands clasped in prayer) frames this religious ritual perfectly.

Fresh markets are busy hives of colour, variety and chatter. Focusing on these three aspects can help convey the lively atmosphere of the market. Resist the temptation to squeeze too much into one shot, often an isolated object, gesture or expression provides more insight about a place than the whole scene.

Displays of fresh produce are colourful and arranged with skilful presentation, while textures and shapes are often quite peculiar, this unlikely marriage makes the perfect subject for close-up photography. Most compact digital cameras have great capacity for taking close-up shots; just set it to macro. If you can’t focus, take a step back and try again.

Downtown Market, Phuket’s longest running market, on Ranong Road, Phuket Town, is the best bet for an early morning shoot as vendors set up shop from 03:00.

Bangkok-based travel photographer, Marc Schultz, is renowned throughout the Kingdom for his outstanding work. His first photo book ‘Thailand – a taste of paradise’ was published in 2008, and he recently collaborated on a travel book which will be on the shelves later this year, entitled ‘To Thailand with Love’.

Marc describes his favourite locations on the island, “One of my favourite places to photograph is the Sino-Portuguese quarter of Phuket Town. The old shophouses are so charming with their beautiful colours and old design. It’s a true gem of a location and an easy subject to photograph.”

Marc has experienced much of Thailand through the lens of his DSLR, he advises on composition, “I think the key is to capture vignettes of a place rather than just a wide angle shot. Tightly cropping and isolating subject matter affords a more intimate take on the culture.”

“Photos should only hint of a place and its people. Think about the aspects that you find most charming about a place, then try to isolate them with a shallow depth of field. It’s also an easy way to shoot in a crowded location where there are many other cameras clicking and angling for the obvious hero shot.”

Temples offer the ideal setting for sharpening your photographic skills. Now the monsoon season has finally blown in, a temple photography tour of Phuket could be the ideal way to spend a rainy day. Try focusing on details such as a resting hand of Buddha or an ornate repeating pattern. Heavy shadows and high contrast lighting accentuate the spirituality of the scene, so have a good look around before you set up your shots.

Daily life in Phuket is an eclectic collage of potentially great shots. We are surrounded by interesting subject matter, but it needs to be composed carefully and economically.

Turning your back on the obvious and trusting you eye to lead you to a more visually arresting composition is a step towards a more captivating image.

Cultural references enrich the contextual information of a picture, so identify the detail that first caught your eye and single it out.

Spending a day or two exploring Phuket through the lens of your camera is sure to be an eye-opening experience.

Shoot beyond the sunset and you will discover that the vibrancy of local culture can be captured just as vividly. If you have never found a pot of gold at the end of a rainbow, maybe it’s time to look beyond the sunset.

Where nature greets tourism

Sustainable tourism is much more than a flimsy fad in the travel industry. Awareness of the concept is spreading rapidly and reaching corners of the region where tourism is still just a twinkle in the eye of its community.

While Krabi Province is renowned for its sparkling jewels such as Railay and Koh Phi Phi, there are many hidden gems yet to be unearthed.

Passing through Ao Luk, the small town appears nothing more than a cluster of dusty shophouses crowded around a busy junction. However, within a radius of a few miles there lies an array of natural attractions to rival any of the Kingdom’s nature resorts.

Ao Luk is set amongst a pristine natural landscape which includes ancient caves, meandering canals and lush vegetation. It is home to an adventure playground designed by nature that offers kayaking, trekking, caving, climbing and cycling.

Often confused with the concept of ecotourism, sustainable tourism focuses on more than just conserving the local environment. It is concerned with protecting communities, culture, customs and lifestyles.

Eight communities in Ao Luk have formed a group (Ao Luk Community Based Tourism) in hope of creating an alternative style of tourism which not only protects their livelihood, but offers travellers a rich and authentic experience.

Instead of ‘selling out’ to capitalist developers, residents are encouraged to convert their humble abodes into homestay accommodation, so guests can sample the warm hospitality of the people in the area.

Guest rooms are set apart from the owner’s residence for maximum privacy and relaxation; however, visitors are invited to join residents in all other aspects of their daily life such as fishing, farming and religious ceremonies.

Homestays have been built in a variety of natural settings, so visitors can choose a location to suit their mood. Rooms are thoughtfully positioned to offer the best views and indulge guests’ vision of a private and scenic getaway.

At Raipreda Homestay, the rustic-style bungalows are perched precariously on a rugged hill, and encircled by a protective mountain range. Tropical fruit trees and exotic flowers add dapples of colour to the emerald blanket which covers the hillside.

It’s a peaceful setting with only the chorus of birds and insects breaking the silence. Camping is also available.

The owner, Mr Jatuaporn, lives on site and takes care of visitors as if they were guests staying in his own home. There are bicycles and kayaks for rent, and the grass-roofed restaurant doubles up as a meeting centre for group tours.

For those who prefer sea-green tones, Laemsak Homestay is the ideal choice. Comfy air conditioned chalets sit on the edge of the water, offering stunning coastal views.

Opaque silhouettes of rugged karsts jut from a watery bed - it’s a still scene apart from the occasional longtail boat cutting across the seascape and leaving a white foamy trail.

It is well worth consulting nature’s timetable when planning a visit to the area. Each month at the peak of low tide, a geothermal beach, ‘Hat Sai Rawn’, is unveiled, providing the ultimate nature spa setting. Trips arranged by local agents include traditional massage, mud masks and ample time for wallowing in the warm soothing water

Fresh air, clean water and lush jungle will always be in demand, so communities and travel operators must take social and environmental responsibility.

Ao Luk CBT not only takes responsibility for its land and culture, but allows tourists the chance to show their support for true sustainable tourism and enjoy a cultural exchange with locals - which is sure to enrich their travel experience.