Wednesday, September 15, 2010

Roughing it down south



Few places in the world boast landscape as diverse as the Andaman Coast. Handsome limestone outcrops rise from an emerald sea, fringed with brilliant arcs of white. Ancient forests cling to the peachy rock face, providing a sanctuary for families of the wild.

Along the coast, an organised entanglement of mangrove roots forms an important ecosystem, while inland, geo-thermal water pools in a jungle clearing.

This serene setting provides relief from the afflictions of city life. It’s an escape from monochrome shades and mundane routine. It’s also a reminder of a disappearing world, and the need to protect it.

As many coastal areas of southern Thailand have been greedily engulfed by a wave of commercial development, travellers seeking adventure a little more low-key, have to plough deeper into rural areas to find true adventure travel.

In the northwest of Trang province, the small coastal community of Bo Hin is becoming known as a destination abundant in natural riches and as a sought after location for farmstay holidays.

The farmstay consists of a series of rickety shacks, perched on the water’s edge. It is run by a team of 19 local boatmen, fishermen, weavers and cooks. Having pledged their skills, equipment and time, they offer visitors a captivating experience of the Bo Hin area.

The eco-mind behind the project is a warm and welcoming local, Mr Bonjoan. He explained two-fold purpose of the farmstay, “I wanted to develop a project that would bring prosperity to the community, and at the same time raise awareness about protecting our environment.”

Mr Bonjoan said the local community pulled together to make the farmstay a reality. “A group of us got together and made a list of what we could offer in terms of both skills and equipment. After adding it up we realized we could provide tourists an opportunity to experience local farming life, as well as our culture,” he said.

The stilted wooden homestead consists of three main rooms connected by a passageway, which also serves as a meeting point, restaurant, and pier. Within each main room there are private bedrooms with ensuite bathrooms, plus a communal lounge area with TV, sofa and books. Accommodation is clean, airy and cool.

Visitors are invited to join locals as they complete their daily tasks. Early risers can learn how to tap rubber and the various stages of preparing the rubber for manufacturing.

There is also the chance to join local fishermen as they head out to the Gulf of Sikao. Guests can cast nets in the Andaman waters, and their catch of the day will be cooked and served upon their return.

Back on dry land, the village women exchange news and chat while making handcrafted goods from pandanus leaves. Joining in this activity provides the chance to enjoy some banter with locals while trying your hand at weaving.

A longtail boat trip with Mr Bonjoan, or one of his crew, is the best way to fully appreciate the natural beauty of the coastline. Boat trips take you through dense mangroves before navigating around groups of towards towering limestone karsts.

Rows of stalactites jut from overhangs on the rocks, while below the lapping water spills into a dark cave as a white bellied sea eagle skims the surface, talons clenched, ready to swoop on unsuspecting prey.

Patches of deep pile emerald carpet soften the harsh rock face while the creamy contours of the limestone melt into the turquoise sea. A small lonesome palm tree sprouts from a cliff; its trunk curling downwards but fronds reaching out towards the warm sun.

Mr Bonjoan is keen to share his knowledge of the local area with visitors, and points out the various islands, beaches, and caves where fishermen take shelter from turbulent monsoon storms. He is also involved in programs to preserve local marine life, a matter close to his heart.

The waters in the area are home to a population of dugongs, or sea-cows, an almost-extinct marine mammal, largely dependent on sea grass.

Recent surveys show that the number of dugongs in the area has dropped in the last year. In a bid to help, Mr Bonjoan has started a sea grass planting scheme to create a more abundant food source and save the species from extinction.

Bo Hin Farmstay is a fantastic example of how tourism can help preserve local nature, customs and traditions. Instead of adapting their ways to accommodate visitors, locals invite guests to share in their everyday life and learn about the environment. It’s quite an eye-opener.

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