Rolling destinations in SEA

While a handful of resorts and tour operators are thinking outside of the standard-sized box, the island of Phuket remains largely inaccessible to physically challenged travellers.

Navigating urban areas in Phuket can be extremely challenging for wheelchair-bound tourists. Pavements are uneven and often obstructed by large advertising boards. Few buildings provide ramps or handrails, and many doorways are too narrow to allow wheelchairs to pass through.

Disabled visitors are limited to touring the island by taxi and while many taxi drivers are often helpful, they are not trained to assist disabled passengers.

As one of Thailand’s premier holiday destinations, Phuket doesn’t fulfil its unwritten duty to accommodate all types of traveller. Fortunately, there are some wheelchair-friendly destinations within easy reach of Phuket.

Thanks to an informative blog published by disabled residents, Hanneke and Jan van der Line, the beach resort of Hua Hin is emerging as a shiny new pin on the disabled traveller’s wall map.

Hua Hin is best known as a royal retreat and popular weekend escape for wealthy Bangkokians; however, international tourists are also well catered for, including those with physical disabilities.

Thanks to its Royal presence, Hua Hin remains unblemished by the rash of girly bars and jet skis commonly associated with tourism; the Kingdom’s oldest beach resort retains its quaint charm and is a blissfully peaceful retreat.

The grandeur of Old Siam echoes from the town’s quaint streets and colonial mansions, including Thailand’s oldest hotel which was originally built as a venue for royal parties thrown by the Queen.

Jan, who is wheelchair bound, and his wife Hanneke, enjoy life in Hua Hin, and recommend the town as a holiday destination for disabled travellers. The couple have designed and built two holiday homes which are fully adapted for wheelchair users.

Visitors can choose from a spacious pool villa close to the beach, or a modern downtown apartment. Both include features such as electrically adjustable beds, roll-in showers and manual pool hoists.

The downtown location suits travellers who enjoy easy access to markets and restaurants, while pool villa guests are only a quick roll from the beach, massage salons and bars.

Their travel blog (wheelchairthailand.blogspot.com) provides useful information for disabled visitors, such as details of accessible temples, markets and bars for viewing live sports action.

Hanneke explains, “We believe Hua Hin is a good destination for wheelchair users as an array of attractions such as the teak wood palace, the beach, temple grounds and shopping malls are relatively easy to access, as well as many cultural shows, bars and restaurants.”

Other wheelchair-friendly destinations within easy reach from Phuket include Singapore. Four airlines operate regular flights from Phuket International Airport and the journey time is just under two hours.

Singapore may be Southeast Asia’s smallest country, but in terms of mobility impaired access, the city-state is miles ahead of its neighbours.

Disabled travellers can get around the city with ease as the subway (Mass Rapid Transit – MRT) has lifts and specially adapted wide gates, and many bus routes are served by wheelchair accessible buses.

The airport shuttle service has wheelchair access and there are two taxi companies offering facilities for disabled passengers. The Handicaps Welfare Association is just one such organisation that provides transport services in the form of vans fitted with hydraulic lifts.

Based on transportation alone, Singapore is in a different league of accessibility from Phuket.

Judy Wee, Principal Consultant at Levelfields Consultants explains, “Singapore is a fantastic and accessible holiday destination for travellers with physical disabilities. Tourist attractions, shopping malls and restaurants are all easy to access. There are many places to visit including Singapore Zoo, Night Safari, Sentosa Island and Marina Barrage.”

Singapore Zoo allows visitors to experience a world of fascinating nature at close range. The site is sectioned into geographical locations, such as the Australian Outback and Wild Africa and visitors can experience wildlife from every corner of the globe.

Approximately 90 percent of Singapore Zoo is accessible to wheelchair users and buildings housing the various exhibitions and animal shows can be entered by ramp. Visitors will find similar facilities attractions throughout Singapore.

Judy, who understands the anxiety of travellers with disabilities, recommends that in-bound visitors contact travel agents who specialise in making arrangements for tourists with special needs.

Patrick Ang, Manager of Asia Travel Group Pte Ltd, who is a paraplegic and an avid traveller, fully understands the needs of wheelchair-bound visitors. Patrick customises packages to suit the interests of visitors. A recent customer, Julie Chong, describes the service provided by Asia Travel Group Pte Ltd, “Meticulous staff helped us find the best value for our budget and advised us on accessible hotels close to sights, as well as accessible transport.”

Singapore is certainly rolling ahead of Phuket regarding catering to disabled travellers needs. An accessible destination needs to offer more than a disabled toilet and parking space; every aspect of travel needs to be considered.

Phuket’s accessibility needs a complete overhaul in order to become a destination physically challenged travellers can thoroughly enjoy, starting with public transportation. After all, without transport, travel is impossible.

Krabi Night Plaza

Last month saw the opening of Krabi’s brand new night plaza, an event which was christened with five nights of live music, cultural acts, shopping and socialising. Spirits were high and the tone of the party signalled much hope for the forthcoming high season.

The neat little bamboo retail village is the first stage of a plan to regenerate an area of wasteland close to the town centre. Project developer and ex-Mayor, Chuan Phukaoluan, recognised the site’s potential and enlisted the help of innovative architect and popular musician, P Choy, to create a new heart for Krabi’s social scene.

Chuan explains, “This location is so close to the town’s most popular attractions, it makes sense to offer visitors a more extensive range of amenities.” He also revealed that future plans include the development of a tower hotel, overlooking Krabi’s iconic twin peaks, Khao Khanab Nam.

A good percentage of the shop units have been snapped up by retailers who have cottoned on to the need to offer shoppers something fresh and organic. Finally business owners in Krabi are beginning to ditch the copycat mentality and trust their own imagination. Edgy fashion boutiques and retro coffee shops might be new kids on the Krabi block, but locals were keen to acquaint.

After a round of retail therapy, a slinky cocktail at Amata Bar is the perfect chaser. This little gem of a bar has not only revived Krabi’s live music scene, but dug out a cosy watering hole for Krabi’s expat community. Laidback weeknights play to the sound of acoustic folk songs, while weekends feature classic rock mixed with more upbeat ensembles.

The space has been designed to accommodate concerts, exhibitions and other events. The on-site spa is in the final stages of completion and will soon add an additional dash of luxury to the experience. Krabi Night Plaza is open every evening from 17:00 until late.

the gold beyond the sunset

From an aesthetic point of view, Phuket is an endless slideshow of exquisite scenery. Idyllic beaches, tumbling waterfalls and forest-capped karsts are some of the region’s most photographed features.

An image of a dazzling white sandy beach makes an attractive screensaver and is sure to impress colleagues, but by spinning around 190 degrees and recomposing your shot, you may capture a scene which tells so much more about the setting.

For example, a photo of a beachside som tam (papaya salad) vendor, her face deeply creased from a lifetime’s worth of smiles and trials, is a reminder that ‘paradise’ is a wearing workplace for some. The genuine warmth of the local people is also radiated from this single image. In fact, there are enough threads to spin dozens of tales, while the postcard beachscape shot is usually only worth a handful of over-used adjectives.

Early risers will be rewarded; not only does the morning light enhance the warmth of photos, but it is the best time to observe the local culture.

A saffron-robed monk wandering barefoot along an empty street lit by the glow of a rising sun is a peaceful and calming image. As residents offer alms, a close-up of their closed eyes and graceful wai (bowing of head while hands clasped in prayer) frames this religious ritual perfectly.

Fresh markets are busy hives of colour, variety and chatter. Focusing on these three aspects can help convey the lively atmosphere of the market. Resist the temptation to squeeze too much into one shot, often an isolated object, gesture or expression provides more insight about a place than the whole scene.

Displays of fresh produce are colourful and arranged with skilful presentation, while textures and shapes are often quite peculiar, this unlikely marriage makes the perfect subject for close-up photography. Most compact digital cameras have great capacity for taking close-up shots; just set it to macro. If you can’t focus, take a step back and try again.

Downtown Market, Phuket’s longest running market, on Ranong Road, Phuket Town, is the best bet for an early morning shoot as vendors set up shop from 03:00.

Bangkok-based travel photographer, Marc Schultz, is renowned throughout the Kingdom for his outstanding work. His first photo book ‘Thailand – a taste of paradise’ was published in 2008, and he recently collaborated on a travel book which will be on the shelves later this year, entitled ‘To Thailand with Love’.

Marc describes his favourite locations on the island, “One of my favourite places to photograph is the Sino-Portuguese quarter of Phuket Town. The old shophouses are so charming with their beautiful colours and old design. It’s a true gem of a location and an easy subject to photograph.”

Marc has experienced much of Thailand through the lens of his DSLR, he advises on composition, “I think the key is to capture vignettes of a place rather than just a wide angle shot. Tightly cropping and isolating subject matter affords a more intimate take on the culture.”

“Photos should only hint of a place and its people. Think about the aspects that you find most charming about a place, then try to isolate them with a shallow depth of field. It’s also an easy way to shoot in a crowded location where there are many other cameras clicking and angling for the obvious hero shot.”

Temples offer the ideal setting for sharpening your photographic skills. Now the monsoon season has finally blown in, a temple photography tour of Phuket could be the ideal way to spend a rainy day. Try focusing on details such as a resting hand of Buddha or an ornate repeating pattern. Heavy shadows and high contrast lighting accentuate the spirituality of the scene, so have a good look around before you set up your shots.

Daily life in Phuket is an eclectic collage of potentially great shots. We are surrounded by interesting subject matter, but it needs to be composed carefully and economically.

Turning your back on the obvious and trusting you eye to lead you to a more visually arresting composition is a step towards a more captivating image.

Cultural references enrich the contextual information of a picture, so identify the detail that first caught your eye and single it out.

Spending a day or two exploring Phuket through the lens of your camera is sure to be an eye-opening experience.

Shoot beyond the sunset and you will discover that the vibrancy of local culture can be captured just as vividly. If you have never found a pot of gold at the end of a rainbow, maybe it’s time to look beyond the sunset.

Where nature greets tourism

Sustainable tourism is much more than a flimsy fad in the travel industry. Awareness of the concept is spreading rapidly and reaching corners of the region where tourism is still just a twinkle in the eye of its community.

While Krabi Province is renowned for its sparkling jewels such as Railay and Koh Phi Phi, there are many hidden gems yet to be unearthed.

Passing through Ao Luk, the small town appears nothing more than a cluster of dusty shophouses crowded around a busy junction. However, within a radius of a few miles there lies an array of natural attractions to rival any of the Kingdom’s nature resorts.

Ao Luk is set amongst a pristine natural landscape which includes ancient caves, meandering canals and lush vegetation. It is home to an adventure playground designed by nature that offers kayaking, trekking, caving, climbing and cycling.

Often confused with the concept of ecotourism, sustainable tourism focuses on more than just conserving the local environment. It is concerned with protecting communities, culture, customs and lifestyles.

Eight communities in Ao Luk have formed a group (Ao Luk Community Based Tourism) in hope of creating an alternative style of tourism which not only protects their livelihood, but offers travellers a rich and authentic experience.

Instead of ‘selling out’ to capitalist developers, residents are encouraged to convert their humble abodes into homestay accommodation, so guests can sample the warm hospitality of the people in the area.

Guest rooms are set apart from the owner’s residence for maximum privacy and relaxation; however, visitors are invited to join residents in all other aspects of their daily life such as fishing, farming and religious ceremonies.

Homestays have been built in a variety of natural settings, so visitors can choose a location to suit their mood. Rooms are thoughtfully positioned to offer the best views and indulge guests’ vision of a private and scenic getaway.

At Raipreda Homestay, the rustic-style bungalows are perched precariously on a rugged hill, and encircled by a protective mountain range. Tropical fruit trees and exotic flowers add dapples of colour to the emerald blanket which covers the hillside.

It’s a peaceful setting with only the chorus of birds and insects breaking the silence. Camping is also available.

The owner, Mr Jatuaporn, lives on site and takes care of visitors as if they were guests staying in his own home. There are bicycles and kayaks for rent, and the grass-roofed restaurant doubles up as a meeting centre for group tours.

For those who prefer sea-green tones, Laemsak Homestay is the ideal choice. Comfy air conditioned chalets sit on the edge of the water, offering stunning coastal views.

Opaque silhouettes of rugged karsts jut from a watery bed - it’s a still scene apart from the occasional longtail boat cutting across the seascape and leaving a white foamy trail.

It is well worth consulting nature’s timetable when planning a visit to the area. Each month at the peak of low tide, a geothermal beach, ‘Hat Sai Rawn’, is unveiled, providing the ultimate nature spa setting. Trips arranged by local agents include traditional massage, mud masks and ample time for wallowing in the warm soothing water

Fresh air, clean water and lush jungle will always be in demand, so communities and travel operators must take social and environmental responsibility.

Ao Luk CBT not only takes responsibility for its land and culture, but allows tourists the chance to show their support for true sustainable tourism and enjoy a cultural exchange with locals - which is sure to enrich their travel experience.

Cultivating a backyard pharmacy

The majority of amateur gardeners could easily identify an aloe vera plant as treatment to soothe a burn, but to ease an upset stomach, most would overlook their own fruitful garden, full of natural remedies. Instead, they would make their way to the pharmacy to buy a familiar remedy.

That trusted brand-name formula is most likely to be based on chemicals that were originally discovered in plants. While this isn’t a major revelation, most people don't realise just how many plants in a home garden have contributed to modern medicine.

Mother Nature holds a recipe book of remedies which have soothed sore throats, settled stomachs, and cured diseases for many centuries. Around fifty percent of today’s prescription drugs are derived from chemicals which were first found in plants.

Since ancient times, man has experimented with thousands of plants to treat dozens of ailments. Even some animals have the ability to seek out bitter herbs in response to illness.

A garden can double up as a pharmacy, and you don't need green fingers and a white coat to reap the benefits. When considering entering the field with clean wellies, it’s best to stick to certain plants, as some are very toxic. Without being a gardening enthusiast or a closet chemist, anyone can create a few handy herbal concoctions with just a little bit of plant knowledge.

Medicinal plants are hardy; they can survive and flourish with little water or fertilizer. Extracting the useful chemicals is also easy, usually involving little more effort than making a pot of tea.

Na Tin Spicy Garden, just outside the beach resort of Ao Nang, in Krabi province, is a lush and leafy enclave and home to hundreds of medicinal and edible plants.

Retired pharmacist and keen botanist Piet created the garden in hope of enriching visitors’ appreciation and knowledge of medicinal plants and herbs.

On guided tours, Piet points out plants which have contributed to various conventional drugs, ranging from testosterone to laxatives.

He explains, “In some species the chemicals are found in the roots, while in others the leaves contain a useful sap. The best genus for a beginner herbalist is ginger, which includes turmeric and galangal. It is very easy to grow, isn’t toxic, and can be used as both a spice and a medicine.”

The rhizome - the knuckled root stalk - is the useful part which can be peeled, sliced and stewed with honey to make an aromatic and therapeutic tea.

Ginger is often used to relieve a long list of ailments including nausea, congestion, coughs, headaches, indigestion and inflammation. Research also suggests it may also help with arthritic pain and diabetes.

Turmeric is another useful household herb. The active ingredient, curcumin, found in the rhizomes, has many healing properties, as well as culinary, cosmetic and horticultural uses.

Herbalists believe turmeric is a powerful anti-inflammatory, and can provide considerable relief for rheumatoid arthritis sufferers. The herb is strongly linked with cancer prevention, particularly colonic cancer and is also believed to prevent Alzheimer’s disease, lower cholesterol and treat inflammatory bowel disease.

Turmeric is found in sun screens and the Thai government is currently funding a project involving the extraction of compounds which might have antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and skin lightening properties.

The plant is also an effective ant deterrent, making it a welcome addition to any Thai garden.

The ginger family is the ideal species for the amateur herbalist as it is easy to grow, prepare and store. The turmeric rhizome should be boiled, dried in the oven and ground into a deep orange powder, ready for use.

Na Tin Spicy Garden is an A to Z of herbal remedies, and home to many familiar plants such as coffee, tea, black pepper, chilli and an array of fruit trees, but behind pretty petals and delicate scents, there are also potential killers.

Allamanda and oleander are both popular ornamental plants in Thailand, but in Africa the milky juice and seeds are traditionally used for poison darts.

Find out more about plants that can cure you, or kill you, at Na Tin Spicy Garden. www.natinspicygarden.com

Holy bananas!

If you are ever stranded on a desert island, pray that somewhere on that island there is a banana plant. After consuming the energy-boosting fruit, you can use the leaves and stalk to build a shelter and a raft. Back on dry land, the plant has even more uses.

In the West the banana is an icon symbolizing healthy eating, comedy, and even sex. For decades the banana skin has entertained TV audiences, as cartoon characters slip on its skin, the ubiquitous hazardous fruit prop.

In Thailand, the banana is much more than a Looney Tunes punch line. Aside from being a staple in local diet, the plant is highly symbolic in traditional Thai culture. Almost every ceremony and festival incorporates elements of the banana plant, and every part is utilised, from the roots to the flower.

Often mistaken as a tree, the banana plant is actually a large herbaceous perennial, with a compact watery stalk, like a giant celery stick. There are around 30 different species in Thailand, and the fruit can be split into two varieties: the sweet dessert banana, and the cooking type.

Throughout Thailand bananas can be found in many forms: fresh, battered, grilled, baked, steamed, and sun dried; they can also be used to make jam and wine.

The teardrop-shaped banana blossom is also on the menu, and tastes similar to artichoke, another edible bud. This purple inflorescence is often served as an accompaniment to pad thai, nam prik and kanom jeen, while the plant’s tender inner stalk is used to make gaeng som, a pungent southern Thai curry.

After nutrition, the banana plant’s other major contribution to every day life is packaging and presentation. The broad waxy leaves are strong and waterproof, and make ideal wrappers for a long list of snacks, sweet meats and desserts.

Arrays of neatly folded packages containing of a myriad of tempting delights can be found in every Thai market. The leaf’s fragrant juices protect the food from burning while it is grilled, and add a subtle hint of flavour to the snack.

Despite its ubiquity, the banana plant is considered sacred. At the funeral of Princess Galayani Vadhana, the crematorium was decorated with dozens of intricately carved banana stalks, and her body was laid on a mat of banana leaves.

The beautiful flotilla of illuminated rafts which characterises the annual Loy Krathong Festival also incorporates the plant. Most krathongs are made from a cross-section of the plant’s stalk, and adorned with elaborately folded banana leaves.

A lot of superstitions and beliefs shroud the plant. A species known as ‘gluay tanee’, produces the best quality leaves but is never grown near a home, as it is believed that an evil and seductive female spirit (Tanee) resides in the tree.

In recent years a banana plant in a remote village shot to fame after it was rumoured that the plant could predict winning lottery numbers. Visitors flocked to the site to rub powder and water on the stalk in hope of deciphering lucky numbers as the solution dried.

The Thai idiom, ‘It’s like peeling a banana’, describing simple tasks, is similar to the English equivalent, ‘It’s a piece of cake’. It’s also a good indication of which nation enjoys a healthier lifestyle.

It seems the banana plant’s uses are as diverse as the plant itself.

Northern hill tribes still use the outer stalk as pig fodder, while the roots are ground into an organic fertiliser. The fibres inside the stalk can be dried to form a strong thread, and the sap can be used as a fabric dye.

In the past Thai boxers attacked the stalk as part of their training, and parents crafted traditional toys.

Some of these traditions are withering due to modernisation; however, the banana’s popularity remains unblemished. Much more than just a pretty fruit, the banana is deeply rooted in Thai culture and tradition.

A splashing good New Year!

I don’t get much sympathy from folk back home when I complain about the weather. Sheets of icy hail and thick blankets of drizzle definitely don’t feature on my much-missed list, but the suffocating heat here can be just as miserable.

This year, temperatures soared very early on in the hot season, without a single falling drop of liquid relief between January and April. Daily life in a torrid climate is far from paradise - the oppressive heat turns simple tasks into sweat-induced drudgery.

The fan blows hot air like a hairdryer, the cold water runs tepid and the poor dogs pant like they are gasping for their last breath. Housework becomes less appealing than ever; ironing when the temperature is 40c surely qualifies as a form of exercise?

By April, the parched nation eagerly awaits the first rains of the imminent monsoon season, and the refreshing cool air that blows in with it. On April 13th, Songkran Day, the whole country takes to the street to celebrate traditional Thai New Year and the beginning of the monsoon season. Thais certainly know how to throw a party, and this rain dance is the nation’s most vibrant celebration.

The traditional and religious aspects of the annual festival are often overshadowed by the wet and wild war of water which takes place throughout the Kingdom. Millions of Thais and travellers participate in the world’s largest water fight, congregating on the streets armed with pump-action water canons and buckets of cold water, plus plenty of alcoholic refreshments to fuel the excitement.

The sober elements of Songkran take place in Buddhist temples, where ceremonies and rituals mark the lunar New Year. However, to the disappointment of many traditionalists, the street-side water play characterises modern day Songkran. Equipped with garden hoses, overflowing barrels and powerful water guns, groups of hyped-up teenagers dance on the road and soak everyone and thing that passes by.

Pick-up trucks full of cheering revellers cruise the streets stopping to engage in water fights along the way. Even motorbike drivers and bus passengers don’t escape the soaking. And from toddling age onwards, children are at the centre of this massive splash fest.

Thai ‘lady boys’ are out in full glory, sporting their tightest and most revealing apparel for the wet t-shirt contest they always dreamed of winning.

It’s touching to witness an entire nation revert to child’s play, regardless of age, religion, politics or culture.

This national festival comes at a time when Thais are deeply concerned about the future of their country. The recent rash of rioting in Bangkok has caused injury and even deaths, and once again the Thai tourist industry falls victim to the unrest.

Visitors should avoid Bangkok, particularly areas where demonstrations are taking place. All other areas of the country are still safe for travel and there are many entry points. Travellers shouldn’t be deterred - Thailand needs tourists more than ever at this time, and it is still possible to enjoy a fantastic holiday here.

Despite the current turbulent tides of political conflict, Thailand managed to have a splashing good Songkran. Let’s hope New Year sees the return of peace and sanity to the streets of this fun-loving nation.