Where nature greets tourism

Sustainable tourism is much more than a flimsy fad in the travel industry. Awareness of the concept is spreading rapidly and reaching corners of the region where tourism is still just a twinkle in the eye of its community.

While Krabi Province is renowned for its sparkling jewels such as Railay and Koh Phi Phi, there are many hidden gems yet to be unearthed.

Passing through Ao Luk, the small town appears nothing more than a cluster of dusty shophouses crowded around a busy junction. However, within a radius of a few miles there lies an array of natural attractions to rival any of the Kingdom’s nature resorts.

Ao Luk is set amongst a pristine natural landscape which includes ancient caves, meandering canals and lush vegetation. It is home to an adventure playground designed by nature that offers kayaking, trekking, caving, climbing and cycling.

Often confused with the concept of ecotourism, sustainable tourism focuses on more than just conserving the local environment. It is concerned with protecting communities, culture, customs and lifestyles.

Eight communities in Ao Luk have formed a group (Ao Luk Community Based Tourism) in hope of creating an alternative style of tourism which not only protects their livelihood, but offers travellers a rich and authentic experience.

Instead of ‘selling out’ to capitalist developers, residents are encouraged to convert their humble abodes into homestay accommodation, so guests can sample the warm hospitality of the people in the area.

Guest rooms are set apart from the owner’s residence for maximum privacy and relaxation; however, visitors are invited to join residents in all other aspects of their daily life such as fishing, farming and religious ceremonies.

Homestays have been built in a variety of natural settings, so visitors can choose a location to suit their mood. Rooms are thoughtfully positioned to offer the best views and indulge guests’ vision of a private and scenic getaway.

At Raipreda Homestay, the rustic-style bungalows are perched precariously on a rugged hill, and encircled by a protective mountain range. Tropical fruit trees and exotic flowers add dapples of colour to the emerald blanket which covers the hillside.

It’s a peaceful setting with only the chorus of birds and insects breaking the silence. Camping is also available.

The owner, Mr Jatuaporn, lives on site and takes care of visitors as if they were guests staying in his own home. There are bicycles and kayaks for rent, and the grass-roofed restaurant doubles up as a meeting centre for group tours.

For those who prefer sea-green tones, Laemsak Homestay is the ideal choice. Comfy air conditioned chalets sit on the edge of the water, offering stunning coastal views.

Opaque silhouettes of rugged karsts jut from a watery bed - it’s a still scene apart from the occasional longtail boat cutting across the seascape and leaving a white foamy trail.

It is well worth consulting nature’s timetable when planning a visit to the area. Each month at the peak of low tide, a geothermal beach, ‘Hat Sai Rawn’, is unveiled, providing the ultimate nature spa setting. Trips arranged by local agents include traditional massage, mud masks and ample time for wallowing in the warm soothing water

Fresh air, clean water and lush jungle will always be in demand, so communities and travel operators must take social and environmental responsibility.

Ao Luk CBT not only takes responsibility for its land and culture, but allows tourists the chance to show their support for true sustainable tourism and enjoy a cultural exchange with locals - which is sure to enrich their travel experience.

Cultivating a backyard pharmacy

The majority of amateur gardeners could easily identify an aloe vera plant as treatment to soothe a burn, but to ease an upset stomach, most would overlook their own fruitful garden, full of natural remedies. Instead, they would make their way to the pharmacy to buy a familiar remedy.

That trusted brand-name formula is most likely to be based on chemicals that were originally discovered in plants. While this isn’t a major revelation, most people don't realise just how many plants in a home garden have contributed to modern medicine.

Mother Nature holds a recipe book of remedies which have soothed sore throats, settled stomachs, and cured diseases for many centuries. Around fifty percent of today’s prescription drugs are derived from chemicals which were first found in plants.

Since ancient times, man has experimented with thousands of plants to treat dozens of ailments. Even some animals have the ability to seek out bitter herbs in response to illness.

A garden can double up as a pharmacy, and you don't need green fingers and a white coat to reap the benefits. When considering entering the field with clean wellies, it’s best to stick to certain plants, as some are very toxic. Without being a gardening enthusiast or a closet chemist, anyone can create a few handy herbal concoctions with just a little bit of plant knowledge.

Medicinal plants are hardy; they can survive and flourish with little water or fertilizer. Extracting the useful chemicals is also easy, usually involving little more effort than making a pot of tea.

Na Tin Spicy Garden, just outside the beach resort of Ao Nang, in Krabi province, is a lush and leafy enclave and home to hundreds of medicinal and edible plants.

Retired pharmacist and keen botanist Piet created the garden in hope of enriching visitors’ appreciation and knowledge of medicinal plants and herbs.

On guided tours, Piet points out plants which have contributed to various conventional drugs, ranging from testosterone to laxatives.

He explains, “In some species the chemicals are found in the roots, while in others the leaves contain a useful sap. The best genus for a beginner herbalist is ginger, which includes turmeric and galangal. It is very easy to grow, isn’t toxic, and can be used as both a spice and a medicine.”

The rhizome - the knuckled root stalk - is the useful part which can be peeled, sliced and stewed with honey to make an aromatic and therapeutic tea.

Ginger is often used to relieve a long list of ailments including nausea, congestion, coughs, headaches, indigestion and inflammation. Research also suggests it may also help with arthritic pain and diabetes.

Turmeric is another useful household herb. The active ingredient, curcumin, found in the rhizomes, has many healing properties, as well as culinary, cosmetic and horticultural uses.

Herbalists believe turmeric is a powerful anti-inflammatory, and can provide considerable relief for rheumatoid arthritis sufferers. The herb is strongly linked with cancer prevention, particularly colonic cancer and is also believed to prevent Alzheimer’s disease, lower cholesterol and treat inflammatory bowel disease.

Turmeric is found in sun screens and the Thai government is currently funding a project involving the extraction of compounds which might have antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and skin lightening properties.

The plant is also an effective ant deterrent, making it a welcome addition to any Thai garden.

The ginger family is the ideal species for the amateur herbalist as it is easy to grow, prepare and store. The turmeric rhizome should be boiled, dried in the oven and ground into a deep orange powder, ready for use.

Na Tin Spicy Garden is an A to Z of herbal remedies, and home to many familiar plants such as coffee, tea, black pepper, chilli and an array of fruit trees, but behind pretty petals and delicate scents, there are also potential killers.

Allamanda and oleander are both popular ornamental plants in Thailand, but in Africa the milky juice and seeds are traditionally used for poison darts.

Find out more about plants that can cure you, or kill you, at Na Tin Spicy Garden. www.natinspicygarden.com

Holy bananas!

If you are ever stranded on a desert island, pray that somewhere on that island there is a banana plant. After consuming the energy-boosting fruit, you can use the leaves and stalk to build a shelter and a raft. Back on dry land, the plant has even more uses.

In the West the banana is an icon symbolizing healthy eating, comedy, and even sex. For decades the banana skin has entertained TV audiences, as cartoon characters slip on its skin, the ubiquitous hazardous fruit prop.

In Thailand, the banana is much more than a Looney Tunes punch line. Aside from being a staple in local diet, the plant is highly symbolic in traditional Thai culture. Almost every ceremony and festival incorporates elements of the banana plant, and every part is utilised, from the roots to the flower.

Often mistaken as a tree, the banana plant is actually a large herbaceous perennial, with a compact watery stalk, like a giant celery stick. There are around 30 different species in Thailand, and the fruit can be split into two varieties: the sweet dessert banana, and the cooking type.

Throughout Thailand bananas can be found in many forms: fresh, battered, grilled, baked, steamed, and sun dried; they can also be used to make jam and wine.

The teardrop-shaped banana blossom is also on the menu, and tastes similar to artichoke, another edible bud. This purple inflorescence is often served as an accompaniment to pad thai, nam prik and kanom jeen, while the plant’s tender inner stalk is used to make gaeng som, a pungent southern Thai curry.

After nutrition, the banana plant’s other major contribution to every day life is packaging and presentation. The broad waxy leaves are strong and waterproof, and make ideal wrappers for a long list of snacks, sweet meats and desserts.

Arrays of neatly folded packages containing of a myriad of tempting delights can be found in every Thai market. The leaf’s fragrant juices protect the food from burning while it is grilled, and add a subtle hint of flavour to the snack.

Despite its ubiquity, the banana plant is considered sacred. At the funeral of Princess Galayani Vadhana, the crematorium was decorated with dozens of intricately carved banana stalks, and her body was laid on a mat of banana leaves.

The beautiful flotilla of illuminated rafts which characterises the annual Loy Krathong Festival also incorporates the plant. Most krathongs are made from a cross-section of the plant’s stalk, and adorned with elaborately folded banana leaves.

A lot of superstitions and beliefs shroud the plant. A species known as ‘gluay tanee’, produces the best quality leaves but is never grown near a home, as it is believed that an evil and seductive female spirit (Tanee) resides in the tree.

In recent years a banana plant in a remote village shot to fame after it was rumoured that the plant could predict winning lottery numbers. Visitors flocked to the site to rub powder and water on the stalk in hope of deciphering lucky numbers as the solution dried.

The Thai idiom, ‘It’s like peeling a banana’, describing simple tasks, is similar to the English equivalent, ‘It’s a piece of cake’. It’s also a good indication of which nation enjoys a healthier lifestyle.

It seems the banana plant’s uses are as diverse as the plant itself.

Northern hill tribes still use the outer stalk as pig fodder, while the roots are ground into an organic fertiliser. The fibres inside the stalk can be dried to form a strong thread, and the sap can be used as a fabric dye.

In the past Thai boxers attacked the stalk as part of their training, and parents crafted traditional toys.

Some of these traditions are withering due to modernisation; however, the banana’s popularity remains unblemished. Much more than just a pretty fruit, the banana is deeply rooted in Thai culture and tradition.

A splashing good New Year!

I don’t get much sympathy from folk back home when I complain about the weather. Sheets of icy hail and thick blankets of drizzle definitely don’t feature on my much-missed list, but the suffocating heat here can be just as miserable.

This year, temperatures soared very early on in the hot season, without a single falling drop of liquid relief between January and April. Daily life in a torrid climate is far from paradise - the oppressive heat turns simple tasks into sweat-induced drudgery.

The fan blows hot air like a hairdryer, the cold water runs tepid and the poor dogs pant like they are gasping for their last breath. Housework becomes less appealing than ever; ironing when the temperature is 40c surely qualifies as a form of exercise?

By April, the parched nation eagerly awaits the first rains of the imminent monsoon season, and the refreshing cool air that blows in with it. On April 13th, Songkran Day, the whole country takes to the street to celebrate traditional Thai New Year and the beginning of the monsoon season. Thais certainly know how to throw a party, and this rain dance is the nation’s most vibrant celebration.

The traditional and religious aspects of the annual festival are often overshadowed by the wet and wild war of water which takes place throughout the Kingdom. Millions of Thais and travellers participate in the world’s largest water fight, congregating on the streets armed with pump-action water canons and buckets of cold water, plus plenty of alcoholic refreshments to fuel the excitement.

The sober elements of Songkran take place in Buddhist temples, where ceremonies and rituals mark the lunar New Year. However, to the disappointment of many traditionalists, the street-side water play characterises modern day Songkran. Equipped with garden hoses, overflowing barrels and powerful water guns, groups of hyped-up teenagers dance on the road and soak everyone and thing that passes by.

Pick-up trucks full of cheering revellers cruise the streets stopping to engage in water fights along the way. Even motorbike drivers and bus passengers don’t escape the soaking. And from toddling age onwards, children are at the centre of this massive splash fest.

Thai ‘lady boys’ are out in full glory, sporting their tightest and most revealing apparel for the wet t-shirt contest they always dreamed of winning.

It’s touching to witness an entire nation revert to child’s play, regardless of age, religion, politics or culture.

This national festival comes at a time when Thais are deeply concerned about the future of their country. The recent rash of rioting in Bangkok has caused injury and even deaths, and once again the Thai tourist industry falls victim to the unrest.

Visitors should avoid Bangkok, particularly areas where demonstrations are taking place. All other areas of the country are still safe for travel and there are many entry points. Travellers shouldn’t be deterred - Thailand needs tourists more than ever at this time, and it is still possible to enjoy a fantastic holiday here.

Despite the current turbulent tides of political conflict, Thailand managed to have a splashing good Songkran. Let’s hope New Year sees the return of peace and sanity to the streets of this fun-loving nation.

Koh Yao Yai: a secret island hideaway

Despite the captivating beauty of the jewel encrusted Andaman coast, it is becoming increasingly difficult to find an island retreat that ticks all the boxes.

The ideal getaway has vision beyond the ‘superior sea view’ and offers guests an all-encompassing experience, as opposed to simply exploiting the natural backdrop.

While neighbouring islands parted with their virginity long ago, Koh Yao Yai remains unhurried in the rush to grow-up.

Just 30 minutes by speedboat from Phuket, Krabi and Phang Nga, Koh Yao Yai lies in the watery heart of one of the country’s most developed bays, yet the island remains pristine.

Approaching the island, visitors first catch sight of the vast quilt of forest green which covers the hillside without interruption. At the pier, a handful of thirty-something travellers eagerly eye up the verdant topography, their brows saluting the sky in praise.

Tucked away on a secluded bay, down a lane meandering through rice paddies and subtropical forestland, Koh Yao Yai Village Resort is the ultimate island hideaway.

If Mother Nature created an island resort, this is how it would look. All elements of design pay utmost respect to the natural landscape. From the layout to the materials used, the resort blends seamlessly with the surrounding environment.

Hidden under the dappled shade of the evergreen canopy, the tropical woodland village consists of 34 deluxe bungalows, generously spaced with more thought for guest experience than profit per square metre.

Despite their spacious 73 sq metre dimension, the tropical modern bungalows make no attempt to dominate the landscape; it is almost as if they sprang up from the forest floor with the rest of the abounding flora.

The interior features elegant wooden furniture, polished concrete floors and a spacious bathroom, complete with outdoor rain shower. Huge downy pillows, velvety bath towels and herbal toiletries add a luxurious feel, while the standard-size fridge and flat screen satellite TV are the perfect home comforts.

A myriad of local influences have been woven into the bungalow’s design, including splashes of rural-style sarong fabric in the soft furnishings.

The large terrace, with sunloungers and daybed, is the ideal place to spend balmy evenings listening to the soundtrack of the jungle.

Overlooking a 700 sq metre infinity pool, the resort’s thatched-roof restaurant enjoys a 180-degree panoramic vista of Phang Nga Bay. Sweeping from the curving sandbars on the west, across opaque islets silhouetted on the skyline, and to the forest-fringed shoreline on the east, the view showcases the region’s diverse landscape.

A selection of fresh and wholesome food is served, ranging from comfort fixes to healthy options, and everything in between. Themed barbeques have a regular slot and feature some of the island’s finest seafood.

Koh Yao Yai’s coast is adorned with gleaming-white, sandy beaches. Within the National Park area, Klong Son is widely considered the island’s most attractive beach. However, Laem Haad is the ultimate island paradise. Jutting into the sea, this narrow stretch of coconut grove is fringed with two shores that meet and merge into a perfect arc of sand.

Unlike the crowded beaches in Railay and Phuket, Koh Yao Yai’s shores are deserted and footprint free; visitors can have their own private beach for the day. In fact, the entire island is quiet and peaceful, which is a welcome escape from the pollution and overcrowding in neighbouring destinations.

The resort offers an array of tours which are personalized and casual, so despite delving deep into island culture, there is no intrusion on locals’ daily lives.

The village tour visits a rubber plantation, where visitors can view the various stages of rubber tapping, from its origin, as a milky, glue-like liquid dripping from the trees, to the pre-manufacture state, which, incidentally, resembles a bath mat.

Next stop is the fresh food market, to sample the rainbow of exotic fruits grown on the island. Markets are the social heart of any Thai village, so they are a great place to soak up the atmosphere and enjoy some friendly banter with locals

A visit to one of the rickety off shore fish farms is also part of the tour. These holding bays for lobster, snapper and shrimp, form the backbone of the island’s economy.

Although fresh flavoursome lobster isn’t a major feature in local diet; islanders enjoy the profit made from selling the coveted crustacean to mainland markets.

The last stop is at Fisherman’s Village, where a fresh catch of iridescent anchovies glint in the scorching midday rays as they are dried, in preparation for packaging and sale. Only the squeals of the local children break the peaceful silence, as they dash across the white-hot sand and dive into the sparkling sea.

It’s the simple encounters with nature, such as noticing a fruit-laden cashew nut tree or watching a hermit crab scampering across the shore under a beautiful shell, that enrich the experience of Koh Yao Yai.

Koh Yao Yai Village Resort is the epitome of ‘sabai’, which in Thai, means relaxing, comfortable and carefree. The resort doesn’t exploit the island’s beauty, but it enhances it by providing excellent service, facilities and a wide range of interesting activities. Few resorts score so highly in every area. This resort ticks all the boxes, and adds a few more that weren’t previously on the list.

Koh Yao Yai Village
Tel: +66 (0) 76 363700
E-mail: marketing@kohyaoyaivillage.com
www.kohyaoyaivillage.com

School holidays: allow nature to do the entertaining

School holidays have arrived, so the Lego-covered road of parenting is about to get rockier. It’s time to draw up a plan of action. Embarking on the two month period without innovative tactics could lead to a long and gruesome battle.

You don’t need regimental structure every single day, but organizing regular outings and activities will help keep the kids’ boredom at bay and your insanity, well, to a minimum.

Although Krabi lacks any major school holiday survival centres such as water parks, there are places where kids can expend that endless supply of energy, while gaining new skills or knowledge.

Krabi is a great place for explorer Dora and Diego wannabes. Horse riding, elephant trekking and rock climbing are all great ways to get active while learning new facts about animals and experiencing the area’s diverse wildlife at close range.

At Nosey Parkers Elephant Camp in Ao Nang, kids can sit on top of the gentle giants as they plod through the leafy wilderness, upstream to the enchanting caves. They will catch sight of monkeys, birds and an array of colourful insects along the way, so their imaginations will be ticking away as the adventure unfolds.

The Giant Catfish Farm provides another fantastic opportunity to observe animals. Aside from the huge hungry catfish, there are rabbits, turtles, crocodiles and a very cute and playful baby parrot (sun conure). Hundreds of huge, wide-mouthed, whiskered catfish squirming and splashing will have little ones squealing with excitement and joy.

Care needs to be taken while exploring the site, but the rickety wooden walkways and meandering paths leading through the rampant jungle will bring all their favourite storybooks to life.

If your little Spiderman is climbing the walls just two days into his holiday, sign him up for a kid’s climbing course. Hot Rock Climbing School on Railay Beach has special routes for junior climbers and provides English-speaking instructors who are experienced in teaching children.

Aside from increasing their level of fitness, rock climbing helps children develop teamwork skills, trust, self-confidence and motivation. The school has equipment for children of ages, so even kids as young as three can find their inner monkey – as if it was ever lost.

If you’re not a crag addict yourself and have concerns for your child’s safety, talk to the friendly owner, Saralisa, who will explain the ‘top rope’ method, which is the very safest way to climb.

Klong Thom Museum does little to defy the stereotypical image of a dusty museum, but it does contain a good collection of ancient artefacts and fossils. The whale spine and fossilized turtles will catch children’s attention straight away, while a selection of ancient stone tools, ornaments and beads provide insight into life in Krabi 5000 years ago.

The museum is located inside Wat Klong Thom (temple) compound. The temple itself is a striking structure with intimidating nagas guarding the entrance from evil spirits. Here, children can learn about Buddhist worship and temple etiquette.

A WWII Navy ship docked in Krabi last month is currently being converted into a museum. Soon visitors will be able to board the imposing battlecruiser and experience the big guns and armoury first hand.

Tara Park is a welcome escape from the stifling heat during this excessively sultry season. The shady forested area overlooking the river is the ideal setting for a leisurely picnic lunch and fun art class. Stalls sell little white cartoon statues and paint palettes, so kids can get creative while parents kick back and enjoy some spicy som tam (papaya salad).

Children can gain a lot from yoga; aside from the obvious physical benefits, it improves their concentration and calmness. So perhaps it’s fair to say parents also enjoy the benefits. The new ‘Soul of Yoga’ studio in Krabi holds kid’s yoga classes every Saturday.

Although Krabi lacks a commercial fun outlet, there are still ways to entertain little ones. The surrounding nature provides the ultimate adventure playground, as well as an ideal backdrop for creative, spiritual and play-based learning.

Child experts believe exposure to nature stimulates all aspects of children’s development, in particular their observation, creativity and imagination. So there’s another good reason to leave the Lego on the floor and take today’s play outdoors.

Eco-plan sustained for Krabi

Sustainable tourism has been the buzz phrase in the tourist industry for a while now, but a recent event in Krabi proved that both tourist operators and travellers consider it more than just a passing trend.

Rayavadee Resort hosted the Phranang - Railay Sustainable Tourism Development Project on March 9 and 10. The event's aim was not only to promote conservation and protection of the local surroundings and culture from the detrimental effects of tourism, but develop a model which can be used. throughout the Kingdom.

Having learnt from neighbouring Phuket's misguided moves early on in the game, Krabi is aware of the importance of guarding its rich heritage, deep rooted culture and outstanding natural beauty from mismanaged tourism.

Rayavadee Resort has been instrumental in developing and promoting sustainable tourism on the Phranang - Railay peninsula. The premier five star resort, which occupies 26 acres of lush vegetation set against sheer cliffs and the sparkling Andaman Sea, recycles both waste water and garbage.

Rayavadee's Chief Designer, Khun Garnchai explained, "The water recycling system ensures that waste water does not contaminate the sea. The recycled water is used for flushing toilets and watering the plants, which reduces the resort's overall water usage."

He explained how the resort also recycles waste materials from the kitchen and garden, to produce an organic fertilizer. This system addresses the urgent need to convert steep consumption gradients into cycles, where the output of one process becomes a useful input for another. By recycling waste, Rayavadee not only reduces the amount of rubbish disposed, but creates an effective soil regenerative.

The resort's annual mangrove planting involves schoolchildren, visitors and local government representatives anchoring new plant life in this important ecosystem. Aside from restoring nature, this initiative cultivates an environmental consciousness in the local community. By donating floating buoys, the resort also hopes to prevent further damage to the sea bed due to longtail anchors.

A final presentation on Phranang Beach, explained the social, economic and environmental benefits to the community. A signing board inviting tourists to comment on the initiative illustrated the growing demand for responsible ecotourism, as many visitors expressed their sincere hope for the programme's success and left email addresses to receive updates.

As tourism in Thailand relies so heavily on the appreciation of the country's thriving nature and vibrant culture, sustainable ecotourism needs to be recognized on a national level.

Few places on this earth combine the vast range of natural habitats and ecosystems to form the diverse landscape and marine environment of Krabi. Mangroves, beaches, islands, forests, karst caves and shallow reefs are so closely juxtaposed. Not to mention the myriad of cultures residing in the region.

The Railay Sustainable Tourism Development Project aims to protect Railay's many natural treasures and maintain the indigenous culture of the local communities. All efforts work towards ensuring the survival of the natural environment; the livelihood of the local community; and the dreams of those who hope to experience its exceptional beauty.