Think Hua Hin, and wine isn’t the first thing that springs to mind. But in the sultry heart of the southwestern Thai tropics, a region more famous for its beaches than its wine, there is a vineyard proving popular with tourists.
A hot climate isn’t conducive to grape-growing - according to text books anyway, but there are viticulture regions in Central Thailand where a new genre of wine and travel are flourishing.
Siam Winery is defying the belief that wine-making grapes can not be successfully grown in tropical climates. The company’s ‘Monsoon Valley’ wine, produced exclusively from Thai-grown grapes is exported to 20 countries. Last month, the label won five awards at the 13th Japan Wine Challenge, to add to its accolades.
Wines produced within this latitude band have been labelled New Latitude Wines. Many experts believe their terroir (the personality of a wine due to environmental factors) complements Thai cuisine.
The winery’s vineyard (huahinhillsvineyard.com) is located on a former elephant corral, around 40 kilometres from downtown Hua Hin. A transfer service from Hua Hin Market shuttles visitors to and from the site; minibuses depart from the town at 10:30 and 15:00. It is essential to book your seat on the minibus in advance (telephone: 032 526 351).
After a 40 minute drive through the rolling hills of Hua Hin, visitors are greeted by a landscape which could almost pass for Napa Valley. Until an ambling elephant gives the location away.
Neat rows of fruit-laden vines lead the eye to the winery’s Sala Bar and Bistro which overlooks the fruit fields. Designed by former Norman Foster architect, Sylvia Soh, the sala pavilion’s design was recently cited by the World Architecture Community Awards for receiving the admiration of many of their honorary members.
Under the free-flowing curved roof of the sala, the wine bar and bistro is the perfect perch for dining and drinking up the view through a glass of the winery’s finest.
The bistro’s menu offers guidance on pairing Monsoon Valley’s wine with a selection of Thai appetizers such as satay, calamari and seafood salad, as well as main course grills which include cuts of imported beef.
Pairing wine and Thai cuisine is often challenging – even for the experts, but the chef’s picks make perfect palate sense. For example, the aromatic Shiraz Special Reserve is a divine partner for the spicy beef salad with grapes, and the crispness of the Colombard complements the zesty seafood salad.
Standard fare, such as fried rice, spaghetti, and sandwiches, is also available but carries the usual levy for the above-standard setting.
Entrance to the site is free, but it’s a good idea to book an organized tour if you want to gain real insight into the concept of New Latitude wine.
A tour package consisting of a wine pairing and tasting session, video presentation, vineyard tour by elephant back, and a souvenir, costs 1,200 baht. For 600 baht more you can add a three course meal to the package. Transfer to and from the site is an additional 200 baht.
If the abounding nature or inspiring architecture tickles your artistic side, you can purchase a label-making set and create a unique souvenir. Sets including a mock-up wine bottle, stick-on label and paints cost 300 baht.
The winery is open all year but just before harvest season - from late November until early March – visitors can view the vines laden with bunches of plump rosy grapes.
A visit to the winery consumes half a day, freeing up time to explore other nearby attractions. Pa La-U Waterfall in Kaeng Krachan National Park is nearby and well worth a dip mid-afternoon. Hiking the 15 tiers to the top, is no walk in the park, but experiencing the unique natural beauty of each level makes it worth the mosquitoes, sweat and leeches.
Other local attractions include Khao Takiab (Chopstick Mountain) with its quaint little hilltop temple, and Khao Sam Roi Yod National Park which is home to one of Asia’s most diverse bird populations.
Travel between Phuket and Hua Hin is time-consuming: it’s a seven hour drive. Taking the scenic route through Ranong adds some visual pleasure despite lengthening the journey. Coaches take 10 hours and while the overnight train from Surat Thani guarantees a bed, it adds an extra leg to the journey.
Regardless of your mode of transport, be sure to make a stop at Hua Hin Railway Station. Thailand’s oldest and most beautiful railway station was once a Royal pavilion in Nakon Pathom.
Accommodation in Hua Hin varies from basic guesthouse digs to plush five star luxury pads. If being within easy access to the night market, beach, and local amenities is more important than in-room spa services and a squash court, you can find a good room for around 1000 baht.
Hua Hin still possesses most of the old Siam charm the travel guides rave about, but visit on a weekday so it isn’t obscured by Thai tourists.
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